Category Archives: South Africa

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I dream of Africa – ostriches and wine

Staying on an ostrich farm we decided to take a tour and learn more about these indigenous creatures! We now know: their feathers are anti-static and are being used by car manufacturers to remove dust before painting; the males are black and white, while the females are a grey color because the females sit on the nest during the day and blend into the earth tones, while the males perform that duty at night! Why does an ostrich stick its head in the sand? the nest is a hole in the ground about 3 ft in diameter and 1 ft deep. The eggs have to be turned twice a day and when the male and female change shift sitting on the nest they turn the eggs. When turning the eggs, it appears that they have their head stuck in the sand!!! Fully grown they weight up to 120 kg. and they live to about 50 years of age. They lost the ability to fly because they can pretty much out run any predator. The industry has suffered due to bird flu and our host had to slaughter his flock in 2011 because of one infected bird. The meat is essentially the same as beef fillet but very low in cholesterol.

We took Rte 62 which followed and passed through more mountains and discovered that once we were on the south side (ocean side) everything became beautifully green and the landscape opened up to orchards, vineyards, and acre upon acre of wheat fields.

 

Stellenbosch is a delightful university town which is bursting with cafes, wine bars, bistros and lovely Cape Dutch buildings.

Accommodations at Eendracht Hotel on Dorp Street (right downtown Stellenbosch) and dinner at Stellenbosch Kitchen – delicious rack of lamb and smoked pork loin!

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I dream of Africa – valleys and mountain passes

The morning drive was very easy, and as usual, free of other traffic. We had the choice of making a 300 km loop down to the ocean and back up to Oudtshoorn or visiting Prince Albert and crossing the Swartberg Pass – we decided on the latter!

Initially the drive was on a pencil straight road through the Karoo bushland with goats, sheep (different breeds) and cattle grazing – very similar to northern Arizona – and corner chimneyed karoo style houses dotting the landscape. We drove closer and closer to the mountains until we took a turn that took us through a gorge with the most amazing rock formations- diagonally slanted sandstone blocks. The little town of Prince Albert was on the other side and we made a well-deserved stop to peruse the main street and enjoy delicious lemonade and apple pie on the porch of the Lazy Lizard. We also got caught in a sea of Merino sheep being herded out of the field and down the road!

Leaving Prince Albert we took the dirt road that goes over the Swartberg Pass. Whoo! what a ride – switchback turns with virtually no guard and we could see the trail winding its way up the mountain and then once reaching the summit, down the other side and hour and half later!

On the other side of Oudtshoorn we arrived at our destination: Rietfontein Ostrich Palace – an ostrich farm. We had ferocious winds that turned to a rain storm (much needed) during our dinner. The farm has been in family ownership since 1846 and was first ostrich farm in the valley. The buildings date from 1906 and our little “Emma’s Cottage” was luxury personified. The lounge and restaurant are in the former stables/barn converted into very comfortable and appealing settings.

Dinner was comparable with any first class restaurant anywhere in the world and comprised:

Ostrich liver pate with fresh-baked bread and candied figs

Mushroom stuffed with baked brie and cranberry

Black Forest Ham wrapped around fresh fig

Ostrich fillet with new potatoes, julienned carrots and beans

Apple tartine with whipped cream.

Protea
Protea

 

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I dream of Africa – and paved roads!

We had the longest day of driving ahead of us today and got on the road early so we’d have some time to enjoy at our destination. We’ve been traveling mostly on the “brown” roads – secondary roads, and today was no different. Some of them have been pothole ridden, but for the most part they’ve been great and free of traffic. Our first 45 km went smoothly as usual, but when we saw the dirt road that stretched from the stop sign in the direction we were headed, we were a little taken aback – especially when it continued for several km. A pick-up truck came flying past us from opposite direction and we flagged him down to ask whether the rutted washboard dirt road would continue until Smithfield (77 km away). He said “Ja” and off he zoomed.  I took the wheel with the idea that speed was the answer – we would just fly over the trail! and that we did!  The scariest part was that the truck was the only vehicle we saw on the entire stretch and civilization was non-existent – we didn’t check if there was cell coverage!!! Luckily the remainder of the  journey (300 km+/-) was on tarmac! Once again the scenery was BIG! reminded us very much of traveling across Wyoming. Sheep, goats, cattle grazing – also lots of cacti along the roadside and no more little villages with thatched roofs.

Only he that has traveled the road knows where the holes are deep. Chinese Proverb

We still made it to our destination (Graff Reinet) in six hours and breathed a huge sigh of relief! Our accommodations here – the Drostdy Hotel – more than make up for any bumps in the road. The hotel and little town are absolute gems! The buildings, all whitewashed, are centered around the Dutch Reformed Church and are in Cape Dutch, Georgian, and Victorian style.

Terrific galleries – especially enjoyed seeing the artwork of 80-year old Esther Mahlangu.

Another great dinner -Karoo style – at the Pioneer Restaurant al fresco!

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I dream of Africa … roads less travelled

Our drive from Ladysmith (KwaZulu Natal) to Ladybrand (Free State) took us through more indescribably beautiful countryside.  We only saw the northern tip of the Drakensburg mountains, but the expanse, height, and formations are amazing. We passed by many more Zulu villages tucked into little valleys or on hillsides, the round thatched roofs glistening like cat’s fur; streams and rivers snaking through valleys, some of them dammed up creating turquoise lakes; some of the lower hills were so green that it looked like Ireland. One sees so many images in the different rock formations – resembling animals, some like faces – strange shapes.

We stopped to photograph this quaint church and found these ladies sitting in the shade. They gave me permission to take their photos:)

http://africageographic.com/blog/video-time-lapse-photography-in-the-drakensberg/

The roads were good for the most part and we sailed along, stopping to click a photo here and there without the hindrance of other traffic. We skirted Lesotho and stopped in the lovely little town of Clarens – many art galleries, cafes and interesting little shops. Many of the buildings built using the local sandstone giving the place a very light and clean look; a village common in the centre of town added to its appeal.

Overnight at The Top House in Ladybrand and another wonderful dinner at Living Life.

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I dream of Africa – farmland, forests..

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We crossed the border from the Kingdom of Swaziland back into South Africa at Secundsa. The border crossings are rather quaint; one parks and goes in to be greeted by very friendly customs officials who take great joy in stamping  the life out of your passport! This happens at both the departure and entry points.

As soon as we crossed into S. Africa we spent about 25 km attempting to dodge potholes that became the width of the road! I was driving and was quite enjoying the slalom method of driving! Once we arrived in Piet Rietef the road surface improved considerably and we had the road pretty much to ourselves, which was great when we wanted to stop and take pictures of the majestic scenery or the little thatch roofed communes.

At a 4-way stop in the “dorp” of Wakkerstrom we noticed a rather interesting little row of shops so took a break to stretch our legs.

The 400 km drive unfolded with interesting things to see along the way, beautiful scenery; farmland, corn and hay; forests with beautiful tall and straight pines and trees we have to find out the name of. Little hamlets some more elegant than others, washing hanging out to dry; cattle and goats along the side of the road and sometimes crossing; beautiful farm houses or ranches surrounded by shade trees, and herds of gorgeous looking cattle grazing in the fields.

Our accommodation for the night: Naunton’s Guest House. Dinner at The Guinea Fowl.

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I dream of Africa … Swaziland

We crossed the border into Swaziland at Jeppe’s Reef and drove through the densely forested mountains to Piggs Peak. I don’t believe I have ever seen such tall and straight trees and we saw many logging trucks carrying the lumber that is used in the “post and beam” construction in these parts. The mountains and valleys are extremely scenic and we also enjoyed seeing the people as they went about their business at road side stalls, in small towns, and walking along the road. We saw lots of school children walking the road to or from school – many of them quite small – probably 7 or 8 years old. The local mode of transport – little white mini buses – zoom along and stop frequently to pick people up.

Just before Mbabane (the capital) we stopped at a glass making foundry where recycled bottles are used to make beautiful glassware. We saw a very innovative wine carafe with a dimple for holding ice to cool the wine, but decided against buying it due to difficulty taking it in our luggage. We also saw some beautiful locally woven silk, mohair, and cotton made into scarves, shawls, blankets, etc. and gorgeous colorful and finely woven baskets. Most of these products are created by local women and sold through cooperatives.

We skirted Mbabane and drove in the eZulwini valley making a stop at a Swazi cultural village. We had an excellent tour given by a young Swazi woman who explained life as it was in rural environments and how many of the cultural habits linger today. For example, it is legal to have more than one wife – in fact the King, whom we saw in a motor cavalcade on our way to this village! – has 16 wives and his father had 70 or so!!! A virgin wife costs 17 cows or the equivalent of 5,000 rand per cow!  We continued our drive until we reached  The Forester’s Arms where we are staying for one night. What a charming place! dating back to the 50’s it has all the old charm that one imagines. The staff were amazingly attentive and helpful and the women all wore traditional “mother-in-law dresses” (good dresses one would wear to visit or meet your mother-in-law!) The food was exceptional.

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Kruger National Park

Kruger was much as expected and we only saw a tiny portion of it on our drive from Phabeni Gate to Malelane Gate. We did, however, see some very amusing impalas bounding around, some waterbok, kudu, a little turtle wandering down the road, as well as a family of giraffe taking a Sunday stroll. My leopard (in the tree) was elusive, and a good reason to return!! I promise – this is the last of the animal pictures!!!

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Drive from Timbevati to Malelane (via Kruger)

We took the somewhat infamous R40 from Timbevati Reserve south to Hazyview. The reason for infamy being that we were warned of “fake” police who stop you for “violations” and demand cash on the spot! We saw no such people early on a Sunday morning – they were probably recovering from the Saturday night! It was interesting to pass through townships and see people dressed to the 9’s walking along the roadside to church and other activities. Funny little car wash stations all the way – we could have used one, but didn’t stop!

After a short Kruger drive we left via the Malelane Gate and arrived at our accommodation there – the Riverhouse Lodge – what a place! Very eclectic with massive collections of everything, but it all works wonderfully. They have a barn-like structure with comfortable furnishings that overlooks the river and we saw a small herd of elephants, hippos, and a croc!

 

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I dream of Africa … our Gomo Gomo game drives

Our week of being at these two game lodges has come to an end! We’ve been on 14 game drives and have seen the BIG FIVE many times over! Quite amazing really. I feel as though we gave it enough time and weren’t on “Ferrari Safari” (as the locals call a quick drive through game parks)!

Because we saw pretty much the same animals as we saw over at Shindzela, I have put them all on one post.

There were two female lions, who were not nearly as energetic or well-fed looking as the Shindzela pride. Evidently these two are a break-off from a large pride that has moved away. Elephants, impala, baboons, buffalo, giraffes, zebras, hyenas,  etc. are plentiful everywhere; rhino and hippos not so much over here, but we saw them. We saw a brand new baby buffalo with its mother, but didn’t pursue it to photograph for fear of scaring it. We saw a bush baby last night, but it was moving too quickly and in the dark, so was impossible to photograph. I’ve especially enjoyed looking for different birds and we have now seen the fish, battalia, tawny and marshall eagles; several vultures; hundreds of hoop bills, an endangered Ground Hoopbill,  and many other varieties  whose names I’ve forgotten!! Oops! We saw two leopards, once again at night, and nigh on impossible to photograph as they moved away from us. It was my dream to see one hanging on a tree branch – maybe in Kruger tomorrow?