Category Archives: Spain

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Granada

We had to revisit this beautiful and diverse city named for the pomegranate – reminders of which can be found all over in the form of mosaics, paintings, engravings, etc. We chose not to visit the Alhambra this time (we’ve been before), but to take a walking tour of Albaicin and learn about the history of the region.

Briefly, the first muslims arrived in Spain in the 8th century, with noblemen from Arabia and armies of berbers. Albaicin is the site of a Moorish settlement from the early 1000s and the time of the Zirid kingdom – some sections of the citadel wall of that time remain. In the 1200s the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra were built.

In December 1499, Albaicin become the boiling point of rebellion triggered by the forced conversions of the Muslim population to Christianity. Many of the churches in the district have since been converted from mosques with the bell towers modified from the minarets. Evidence of Moorish architecture and their stunning craftsmanship is found throughout.

 

The skylights in this 11th century hammam were originally colored glass and one can only imagine how the baths must have been when tiled.

From the steep and winding alleys of Albaicin there are magnificent views of the Alhambra and the snow capped Sierra Nevadas in the background.

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Casares

Our last Puebla Blanca! We so enjoy wandering through these villages and walked down and through and up the other side to the castle ruin.

It’s a dog’s life!!!

A private patio – what a view!

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More Andalusian villages – mostly white!

From Ronda we took roads that must have been former goat paths as we twisted and turned up, around, and down through the majestic mountains of Andalusia. The villages and towns Grazalema, Ubrique, Cortes de la Frontera, Algatocin, Atajate – to name a few – all have one thing in common – sparkling white and perching atop a mountain or nestled into the side of one.

.. and then there is Juzcar! Spain’s blue smurfs village! At one time it resembled all the other white villages, but changed its look in 2011 when it became the “first and official Smurfs village in the world.” The idea came from Sony Pictures as part of the campaign to promote The Smurfs movie. The locals agreed to temporarily paint all their buildings the bright blue, but the idea caught on and now Juzcar is benefitting from being different!

On our drives through the mountains we have noticed trees along the side of the road that have been stripped of their bark part way up – these are Quercus suber, commonly called the cork oak. The cork is harvested every nine years.

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Ronda

As described by Abú al Fidá (1273-1331)
[an] “…elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban, and its towers as a sword belt.”

Ronda is a wondrous city that is built above a deep gorge (El Tajo). On one side of the gorge, the old town dates back to the 15th century and Moorish rule; on the other side is the new town. One of the most spectacular features in the city is the Puente Neuovo, a stone bridge that spans the 400 ft. gorge. Named the “new bridge” – construction started in 1759 and was completed 34 years later!

There is always something to observe when strolling the narrow cobbled streets..

 

 

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Today’s options are so great ….

Traveling has changed so much in the age of smart phones and internet! In the past we would drive and then find an accommodation or place to eat purely. Y chance, luck, economy or availability! Now, we can  research the best options, book in advance and locate via gps!

Before we get on the road – a few more pics from Sevilla.


We wanted to leave Sevilla for Marbella and make a stop for a nice Sunday lunch – Spanish style!  I found Bodega la Mazaroca on TripAdvisor in a small town – Arahel- about 45 minutes out of Sevilla. A little whitewashed town with narrow streets lined with row houses. We tracked down la Mazaroca, but so did everyone else in the area (Spaniards, not gringos!)!!! We secured two standing places at the bar and proceeded to take a guess at what we were ordering. Everything being produced and delivered looked incredible!

Oh! Spanish olives that we buy so cheaply? And all the olive oil we consume? Yeah! As far as the eye can see here in this part of Andalusia- olive groves.

Happy to be settled for a week at Marriott Beach Resort Marbella where we can explore some of the lovely white hill towns that we love!

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Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos

We love to get away from the Costa del Sol and climb into the mountains that reach down to the Mediterranean.

…and visit the moorish pueblos blancos (white villages). These towns spill from the hilltops with their simple whitewashed houses influenced by the Berber architecture of North Africa.

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Casares

.. and a view through the mountains to the sea and the Rock (Gibraltar)

 

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Sevilla

Yesterday as we approached. Salamanca, we saw what looked like snow capped mountains, but we thought it was a mirage!

Today, in the plains between Merida and Sevilla we saw vast – from horizon to horizon – plantings of olives and vineyards.  I don’t believe I’ve ever seen as much land covered with grapevines.

We arrived in Sevilla at about the busiest time – about 2.30 on a Saturday. However, we lucked out by finding a space in subterranean parking garage and walked the narrow, cobbled streets to our Hotel Cervantes (which has parking!)

Sevilla – I had completely forgotten how beautiful and full of life you are!

… and how huge and magnificent the cathedral is!

… and how good the sangria is!

… more

 

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Salamanca

We had a good, but fairly long drive from Santiago de Compostela to Salamanca partly because we didn’t take the autostrada, but enjoyed driving the N525. We passed through and saw some nice towns and villages and were especially happy to see a pair of storks on their nest.

Salamanca is a fairly large university city about 215 km from Madrid and 450 km to Seville. The old town has some magnificent buildings constructed with sandstone blocks and all seem very well preserved. The Plaza Major is immense and very beautiful. A fun place to hang out and people watch, as we did this afternoon. Unfortunately we are only passing through on our way to Seville and Marbella and overnighting at Hostellaria Sara.

 

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The food of Galicia

I had heard about the amazing food in Galicia long before we even planned this trip. We have not been disappointed! Walking through the market one sees an abundance of freshly caught fish, beautiful beef, lamb and pork and so many different types of cheeses and sausages! Oh! and chocolate, pastries and cakes that are found in the Pasterias! And then there is the olive oil and the wonderful wines! One of the specialty cakes is the St. James’ Almond Cake which is decorated with the St. James’ Cross.

Another fabulous thing in Santiago DC is that a complimentary plate or two of tapas are served with first drink order.

Outside the market this delicious looking octopus (pulpo)  was being cooked in a large tub. It was served on the little wooden plates by cutting into bite size pieces, seasoning with salt and pepper and then drizzling with olive oil! I wanted it so badly, but we were going to have a delicious lunch and I couldn’t spoil my appetite! Ps. I found some on the road to Salamanca and we had it for our picnic lunch!

Our picnic of pulpo, cheese, bread and wine!


We lingered over an amazing lunch at O Curra da Parra.

 

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Santiago de Compostela

Legend dictates that the apostle James took Jesus’s request to “go forth and spread the Word” literally and ended up in Finisterre (end of the world) having past through this area preaching and gathering followers. He returned to Jerusalem in 44AC where he was killed, but his disciples stole his body and brought his remains back to this area in a stone boat. A mausoleum was erected and the remains buried in a secret hilltop location. In the 9th century a bright star shining on the field (“field of the star” = campus stella – later renamed Compostela) led to the discovery of the tomb. The local Bishop received notice of the event and alerted the King (AlfonsoII) who declared that a church be built on the site and St. James be the patron. (St. James is one of the patron saints of Spain). In the 13th century, the Pope named Santiago de Compostela a holy town, third in importance after Rome and Jerusalem and a cathedral was erected over the original chapel which housed the tomb of St. James.

To this day pilgrimages are made and we observed a small group of backpackers arriving via Camino Franco to the Cathedral Square (Praza Do Obradoiro). According to our guide, if a pilgrim walks 100km (or cycles 200km) to Santiago de Compostela, they are awarded a special certificate, however, many pilgrims make shorter pilgrimages on one of the seven main routes, all of which have clam shells directing the way. (Note the clamshell on the pilgrims backpack!)

Obviously the city is steeped in history, and one feels it and witnesses it when walking the paved streets.

Once again, there are many opportunities to sample and see the local food specialties.  We enjoyed tapas and the local wine and beer at some of the many eating establishments.

And then there are the “two Marias” – two eccentric sisters who dressed flamboyantly, wore a lot of make-up and enjoyed promenading through Alameda park and flirting with university students at 2 o’clock every day! A statue to commemorate the two women was made by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994.

We spent several hours in the late afternoon and early evening relaxing and watching young families, children, students, dogs and their walkers in a park overlooking the city.

Our hotel San Bieito is a modern filing with a very old shell! A great find which is tucked away in the old town.