Montreal May days

A terrific little city break in Montreal to meet up with Irene from Toronto. A great AirBnB apartment in south west Montreal and very convenient to metro and downtown.

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May 17 was Montreal’s 375th birthday and we were treated to free metro transport! We visited the impressively huge Jean Talon market and Old Montreal.

Subway sights….

Despite the blistering heat (totally unexpected after all the cold weather!) we spent an enjoyable day at the botanical gardens. In another week or so we would have been wowed by the peonies, but I will be wowed by my own in the garden at home!!!

Cooking Indian

What better past time for a dreary, drizzly day than cooking an Indian feast? With Gunjan Gilbert as our teacher, Nan, Lisa, Jeff, and I prepared: samosas, naan bread, lamb keema, cucumber raita, aloo saag, chicken makhani, mint cilantro chutney and fragrant rice!

Lisbon – last day!

How can our trip have come to an end? We have seen and done so much; met many wonderful people; stayed in lovely places, and eaten amazing food – and drunk fabulous wine! Unfortunately, this must come to an end – for a while!

Today, breakfast started out at a neighborhood bakery/cafe with a good cup of Americano and my beloved Pastel de Nata and Bola de Arroz! Had to have one of each – who knows when I will have it again??!

We took another Free Walking tour with Gabriella of Lisbon Chill-out Free Tours , a local organization. She took us up and down and around Lisbon for over three hours – hitting some touristic high points, through Alfarma’s narrow “roads”, to a place where we could taste some home-made Ginjinha – a sour cherry liquer, and ending up with a crazily beautiful view over the city.

Street art …

Neighbourhoods…

Plazas and edifices …

Views….

We spent the afternoon taking tram 15 to Bellem – a neighborhood  west of Lisbon with a beautiful esplanade, park, and the humongous Jeronimos Monastery (dating from 15th century). It is also known for its wonderful pastries, but the line was just too long! So we took the tram back to town and then meandered back to our room for a rest for a couple of hours before heading back out again!

Logging in: 16,153 steps/7.37 miles/61 sets of stairs!

Electrico 28 (tram 28)

In operation since 1873, Tram 28 is the vintage yellow tram that plies various routes in Lisbon. This little yellow tram climbs and dives through the city’s steep and narrow streets. We travelled two of the five routes and hope to cover the remaining three.

Views from along the way….

 

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Barcelona Wrap-Up!

We had a fabulous time in Barcelona and managed to pack quite a lot of sights into five days. We spent the last day moving to the hotel Room Mate Anna which is one in the Room Mate chain. We will definitely check out others in cities we visit.

Last images of the Gaudi designed house near our hotel.

We enjoyed a leisurely Sunday lunch with locals in a small cafe – so much fun seeing large family gatherings and hearing all the chatter that goes on! We added a little culture to our last evening in town and bought tickets online to see Opera y Flamenco at the famed Palau de la Musica Catalana. Our tour of Gaudi and Modernism took us by the theater earlier in the week and Andrei told us how beautiful the interior is. It truly is an art-deco masterpiece. The music and dancing was spectacular and with our front row seats we could see all the foot movements! Photography and videography was not allowed, so I found a link on youtube.

stained glass reverse cupola allowing natural light in theater

Sagrada Familia

The story of Anoni Gaudi and Sagrada Familia is fascinating. An architect was hired to plan a church on this site, but resigned after just a few years. In 1883 Gaudi was hired and was able to infuse enough donations to redesign the building to his liking.

Gaudi poured his life into this project and he definitely gained his inspiration from nature. A deeply religious man, he made plans and plaster models (which he then photographed) of every aspect of the building. Wherever you look throughout the building there is evidence of nature – the columns representing trees, the light filtering through from above, the honeycomb shapes, and designs from geodes, leaves, flowers and any other natural thing. He knew, from conception, that he would not live to see the completion, and his life was cut short in an accident at the age of 74 in 1926. Therefore, the completion date of 2026 is to commemorate the centenary of his death.

It remains, to this day, a controversial edifice but architects and sculptors continue to put their stamp on this amazing design.

This is how it looked when I was last here in 1973:

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Gaudi and Modernism

We started off in the morning with a metro trip out to see the gurkin tower of Barcelona – Torre Agbar – which has some good reflections of buildings near by. We also came across an incredible market with miscellaneous goods on the top floor and a massive flea market below! Wow!

“Gaudi and Modernism” is the name of the Free Walking tour we took this afternoon, and as it turns out we spent much of the morning also strolling/walking the streets of the “modern” Barcelona – that is the planned section constructed at the end of the 19th and early 20th centuries. We learned today that the area was divided into equally sized plots or “mazanas” (I think 180 meters square) on which plain multi-storey villas were constructed. Each family then decorated the facade to their liking which often meant adding design or sculptures representing their business or their achievements.

From our arrival we have noticed how the buildings at the corners of the intersections or plazas are angled into the squares – they have 45 degree angles instead of 90 – providing much more light and space to the area. Evidently this was something that was planned, here in Barcelona, during the modernist times at the desire of the inhabitants.

Gaudi has, of course, had a huge influence on the city from sidewalk paving stones to houses commissioned throughout the city to the Basilica Sagrada Familia which, as we all know, remains unfinished to this day – 90 years after his death. The plan is for it to be completed by 2026, but I would say that is an optimistic goal. Evidently, in order to complete the entrance – according to his plans – it would require the closure of the street and the apartment building across the street would need to be demolished! The highest and largest tower is yet to be built and is designed to be 172.5 meters high. Cranes are still surrounding the constructions site and the area that I remember from 1972 is now in need of restoration!

It was a good day for being out on the streets and we clocked 18,842 steps/8.59 miles.

For foodies and market lovers

Today is a drizzly, rainy day in Barcelona and the perfect day to visit some of the fabulous markets! We spent several hours wandering the aisles of  La Boqueria – or officially – Mercat de Sant Josep de La Boqueria! This huge public market is on the records back to 1217, and it still stands today as a huge market hub.

Don’t I wish I could shop here regularly!!!!

An extensive array of seafood…

Vibrant and fresh fruit and vegetables ..

Wonderful breads, meats, spices, legumes, gelato – anything your heart desires ..

 

 

Barcelona

 

It’s been about 45 years! (How can that be?) since my friend and I hitch-hiked through France to Barcelona. My main memories from that trip are La Rambla and sangria! I remember the lovely shady pedestrian avenue with cafes and benches – and in particular, the bird cages with peoples’ birds tweeting and twirping and enjoying being outdoors. Today La Rambla is paved and there are no benches and no canaries! It is still fun to stroll, stop, and sit at a cafe and sip on a sangria and watch the people pass by, but I miss the old Rambla!

We took another of our beloved Free Walking Tours this morning, and Mitch, our guide – a Canadian from Saskatchewan – took us through the Gothic Quarter and we ended up at the waterfront. We started at the beautiful Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia and, once again, he shared much of the history of Barcelona from the time of the Romans until the Spanish Civil War. We visited many interesting buildings and squares and heard some great stories – some true and some more folklore than fact!

We had an absolutely delicious tapas evening meal at Bodega Biarritz and then another stroll through plazas and pedestrian streets.

 

Valencia

So glad we made the short stop-over in Valencia, and our apartment was situated within walking distance of most of the highlights which made it especially nice.


We took the three-hour free walking tour with Elena as our guide. Once again we were given so much anecdotal information as well as history. These tours are the best!

We started at Plaza de Virgen – behind the cathedral – and witnessed the end of the Fire Festival,  heralding the start of Spring, where the Virgen statue was totally covered in flowers. Had we known about the Fire Festival (Fallas Festival), we should have arrived a couple of days earlier and experienced the bonfires and celebrations in plazas throughout the city!


As we all know, Valencia is famous for its oranges, and Elena told us about the popular beverage Agua de Valencia which, of course, we had to sample.

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The main market building was one of the striking buildings we saw with a beautiful central dome, lots of lovely ceramic tiles, and leaded windows. One of them displaying the Valencia coat of arms with the two-Ls (given by King James when Valencia twice showed loyalty to his reign, and the bat which is part of Valencia’s lore.

Granada

We had to revisit this beautiful and diverse city named for the pomegranate – reminders of which can be found all over in the form of mosaics, paintings, engravings, etc. We chose not to visit the Alhambra this time (we’ve been before), but to take a walking tour of Albaicin and learn about the history of the region.

Briefly, the first muslims arrived in Spain in the 8th century, with noblemen from Arabia and armies of berbers. Albaicin is the site of a Moorish settlement from the early 1000s and the time of the Zirid kingdom – some sections of the citadel wall of that time remain. In the 1200s the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra were built.

In December 1499, Albaicin become the boiling point of rebellion triggered by the forced conversions of the Muslim population to Christianity. Many of the churches in the district have since been converted from mosques with the bell towers modified from the minarets. Evidence of Moorish architecture and their stunning craftsmanship is found throughout.

 

The skylights in this 11th century hammam were originally colored glass and one can only imagine how the baths must have been when tiled.

From the steep and winding alleys of Albaicin there are magnificent views of the Alhambra and the snow capped Sierra Nevadas in the background.

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