Our last Puebla Blanca! We so enjoy wandering through these villages and walked down and through and up the other side to the castle ruin.
Casares
Author Archives: Chris
More Andalusian villages – mostly white!
From Ronda we took roads that must have been former goat paths as we twisted and turned up, around, and down through the majestic mountains of Andalusia. The villages and towns Grazalema, Ubrique, Cortes de la Frontera, Algatocin, Atajate – to name a few – all have one thing in common – sparkling white and perching atop a mountain or nestled into the side of one.
.. and then there is Juzcar! Spain’s blue smurfs village! At one time it resembled all the other white villages, but changed its look in 2011 when it became the “first and official Smurfs village in the world.” The idea came from Sony Pictures as part of the campaign to promote The Smurfs movie. The locals agreed to temporarily paint all their buildings the bright blue, but the idea caught on and now Juzcar is benefitting from being different!
On our drives through the mountains we have noticed trees along the side of the road that have been stripped of their bark part way up – these are Quercus suber, commonly called the cork oak. The cork is harvested every nine years.
Ronda
As described by Abú al Fidá (1273-1331)
[an] “…elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban, and its towers as a sword belt.”
Ronda is a wondrous city that is built above a deep gorge (El Tajo). On one side of the gorge, the old town dates back to the 15th century and Moorish rule; on the other side is the new town. One of the most spectacular features in the city is the Puente Neuovo, a stone bridge that spans the 400 ft. gorge. Named the “new bridge” – construction started in 1759 and was completed 34 years later!
There is always something to observe when strolling the narrow cobbled streets..
Today’s options are so great ….
Traveling has changed so much in the age of smart phones and internet! In the past we would drive and then find an accommodation or place to eat purely. Y chance, luck, economy or availability! Now, we can research the best options, book in advance and locate via gps!
Before we get on the road – a few more pics from Sevilla.
We wanted to leave Sevilla for Marbella and make a stop for a nice Sunday lunch – Spanish style! I found Bodega la Mazaroca on TripAdvisor in a small town – Arahel- about 45 minutes out of Sevilla. A little whitewashed town with narrow streets lined with row houses. We tracked down la Mazaroca, but so did everyone else in the area (Spaniards, not gringos!)!!! We secured two standing places at the bar and proceeded to take a guess at what we were ordering. Everything being produced and delivered looked incredible!
Oh! Spanish olives that we buy so cheaply? And all the olive oil we consume? Yeah! As far as the eye can see here in this part of Andalusia- olive groves.
Happy to be settled for a week at Marriott Beach Resort Marbella where we can explore some of the lovely white hill towns that we love!
Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos
We love to get away from the Costa del Sol and climb into the mountains that reach down to the Mediterranean.
…and visit the moorish pueblos blancos (white villages). These towns spill from the hilltops with their simple whitewashed houses influenced by the Berber architecture of North Africa.
Jimena de la Frontera
Gaucin
Casares
.. and a view through the mountains to the sea and the Rock (Gibraltar)
Sevilla
Yesterday as we approached. Salamanca, we saw what looked like snow capped mountains, but we thought it was a mirage!
Today, in the plains between Merida and Sevilla we saw vast – from horizon to horizon – plantings of olives and vineyards. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen as much land covered with grapevines.
We arrived in Sevilla at about the busiest time – about 2.30 on a Saturday. However, we lucked out by finding a space in subterranean parking garage and walked the narrow, cobbled streets to our Hotel Cervantes (which has parking!)
Sevilla – I had completely forgotten how beautiful and full of life you are!
… and how huge and magnificent the cathedral is!
… and how good the sangria is!
… more
Salamanca
We had a good, but fairly long drive from Santiago de Compostela to Salamanca partly because we didn’t take the autostrada, but enjoyed driving the N525. We passed through and saw some nice towns and villages and were especially happy to see a pair of storks on their nest.
Salamanca is a fairly large university city about 215 km from Madrid and 450 km to Seville. The old town has some magnificent buildings constructed with sandstone blocks and all seem very well preserved. The Plaza Major is immense and very beautiful. A fun place to hang out and people watch, as we did this afternoon. Unfortunately we are only passing through on our way to Seville and Marbella and overnighting at Hostellaria Sara.
The food of Galicia
I had heard about the amazing food in Galicia long before we even planned this trip. We have not been disappointed! Walking through the market one sees an abundance of freshly caught fish, beautiful beef, lamb and pork and so many different types of cheeses and sausages! Oh! and chocolate, pastries and cakes that are found in the Pasterias! And then there is the olive oil and the wonderful wines! One of the specialty cakes is the St. James’ Almond Cake which is decorated with the St. James’ Cross.
Another fabulous thing in Santiago DC is that a complimentary plate or two of tapas are served with first drink order.
Outside the market this delicious looking octopus (pulpo) was being cooked in a large tub. It was served on the little wooden plates by cutting into bite size pieces, seasoning with salt and pepper and then drizzling with olive oil! I wanted it so badly, but we were going to have a delicious lunch and I couldn’t spoil my appetite! Ps. I found some on the road to Salamanca and we had it for our picnic lunch!
Our picnic of pulpo, cheese, bread and wine!
We lingered over an amazing lunch at O Curra da Parra.
Santiago de Compostela
Legend dictates that the apostle James took Jesus’s request to “go forth and spread the Word” literally and ended up in Finisterre (end of the world) having past through this area preaching and gathering followers. He returned to Jerusalem in 44AC where he was killed, but his disciples stole his body and brought his remains back to this area in a stone boat. A mausoleum was erected and the remains buried in a secret hilltop location. In the 9th century a bright star shining on the field (“field of the star” = campus stella – later renamed Compostela) led to the discovery of the tomb. The local Bishop received notice of the event and alerted the King (AlfonsoII) who declared that a church be built on the site and St. James be the patron. (St. James is one of the patron saints of Spain). In the 13th century, the Pope named Santiago de Compostela a holy town, third in importance after Rome and Jerusalem and a cathedral was erected over the original chapel which housed the tomb of St. James.
To this day pilgrimages are made and we observed a small group of backpackers arriving via Camino Franco to the Cathedral Square (Praza Do Obradoiro). According to our guide, if a pilgrim walks 100km (or cycles 200km) to Santiago de Compostela, they are awarded a special certificate, however, many pilgrims make shorter pilgrimages on one of the seven main routes, all of which have clam shells directing the way. (Note the clamshell on the pilgrims backpack!)
Obviously the city is steeped in history, and one feels it and witnesses it when walking the paved streets.
Once again, there are many opportunities to sample and see the local food specialties. We enjoyed tapas and the local wine and beer at some of the many eating establishments.
And then there are the “two Marias” – two eccentric sisters who dressed flamboyantly, wore a lot of make-up and enjoyed promenading through Alameda park and flirting with university students at 2 o’clock every day! A statue to commemorate the two women was made by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994.
We spent several hours in the late afternoon and early evening relaxing and watching young families, children, students, dogs and their walkers in a park overlooking the city.
Our hotel San Bieito is a modern filing with a very old shell! A great find which is tucked away in the old town.
Porto on foot
We took the Free Porto Walking Tour this morning – we love these tours and take them whenever they are offered in cities we visit. The guide is usually young and offers some different insights and snippets of information on the city. This one, like most others, was three-hours long and we covered much of Porto’s history and many interesting facts.
Clocking in at 17,353 steps, 7.91 miles, and 55 sets of stairs! Almost all on cobblestones!
This post’s photos are all sights of Porto but through an artistic filter.
Views of the city of Porto from the two-tiered iron bridge – the Dom Luis I bridge (completed in 1886)
Steep alleys twisting down from town to the river.
The ubiquitous Pastela de Nata. An evening glass of port.
The bridge upwards from the lower tier. Port crates.
Alongside the Duoro at dusk in Gaia (across from Porto).
Graffiti – the artist’s grandfather.
Porto
The day started out with drizzle and light rain for most of our drive from Obidos to Porto, but we still enjoyed passing through the small towns along the way.
Our hotel, Castelo de Santa Catarina, is rather more ornate than we are accustomed to, but it is fun staying in a castle with tiled turret!
As we left the hotel in mid-afternoon the skies cleared. It is all downhill from our castelo to the river (Douro) through the centre of town where many of the buildings have tile facades, and to the historic district (Ribeira) and riverside with its narrow cobbled streets and where port wine is produced. There are many, many cafes and small bars where one can sample the local wines and ports.
Our tapas/evening meal was taken at Wine Quay Bar on the terrace overlooking the promenade and river. Delicious sardines in a tomato sauce, warm bread, olive oil, and spicy chorizo.
Luckily we only had to trek part way up the hill – to the metro station and the metro train, which delivered us back close to the hotel.
Obidos, Portugal
A dreary, misty day in the lovely walled town of Obidos, Portugal.
O Manjerico!
Everything about O Manjerico in Prazeres is a little different from the norm – from procuring a reservation, to the actual dining experience. I read about the restaurant on Trip Advisor and it sounded good and not too far from our place for night driving. Reservations were recommended and so I attempted to call without success, but then wrote them a message on Facebook requesting a reservation. The response was positive but also inquiring what we would like to eat! I’d read how good the stuffed chicken was, so went with that!
We arrived for our dinner to this lovely little stone building with no obvious outward appearance that it was a restaurant. In we went to a cozily decorated room with fireplace ablaze and a warm welcome from the proprietor. Seated in front of the fire, there was just one other table set for two and we were soon joined by a young Dutch couple.
The meal itself was absolutely delicious. Starting with fresh, home-baked bread and a platter consisting melted Brie, stuffed mushrooms, shrimp, short ribs with a delicious sauce, and little meat-filled puffs.
The entire evening was very leisurely and we enjoyed conversation with the proprietor and also the other couple; experiences whilst on Madeira, living on the island, the U.S. political situation, the pending Dutch elections, and much more.
The deboned roasted chicken stuffed with pork, chestnuts and raisins was absolutely delicious.
… and dessert! Oo-la-la! Passion fruit mousse, which resembled key lime cheesecake, topped with fresh passion fruit!
We definitely saved the best for last! Salad for the next few days!!