We had the longest day of driving ahead of us today and got on the road early so we’d have some time to enjoy at our destination. We’ve been traveling mostly on the “brown” roads – secondary roads, and today was no different. Some of them have been pothole ridden, but for the most part they’ve been great and free of traffic. Our first 45 km went smoothly as usual, but when we saw the dirt road that stretched from the stop sign in the direction we were headed, we were a little taken aback – especially when it continued for several km. A pick-up truck came flying past us from opposite direction and we flagged him down to ask whether the rutted washboard dirt road would continue until Smithfield (77 km away). He said “Ja” and off he zoomed.  I took the wheel with the idea that speed was the answer – we would just fly over the trail! and that we did!  The scariest part was that the truck was the only vehicle we saw on the entire stretch and civilization was non-existent – we didn’t check if there was cell coverage!!! Luckily the remainder of the  journey (300 km+/-) was on tarmac! Once again the scenery was BIG! reminded us very much of traveling across Wyoming. Sheep, goats, cattle grazing – also lots of cacti along the roadside and no more little villages with thatched roofs.

Only he that has traveled the road knows where the holes are deep. Chinese Proverb

We still made it to our destination (Graff Reinet) in six hours and breathed a huge sigh of relief! Our accommodations here – the Drostdy Hotel – more than make up for any bumps in the road. The hotel and little town are absolute gems! The buildings, all whitewashed, are centered around the Dutch Reformed Church and are in Cape Dutch, Georgian, and Victorian style.

Terrific galleries – especially enjoyed seeing the artwork of 80-year old Esther Mahlangu.

Another great dinner -Karoo style – at the Pioneer Restaurant al fresco!

Our drive from Ladysmith (KwaZulu Natal) to Ladybrand (Free State) took us through more indescribably beautiful countryside.  We only saw the northern tip of the Drakensburg mountains, but the expanse, height, and formations are amazing. We passed by many more Zulu villages tucked into little valleys or on hillsides, the round thatched roofs glistening like cat’s fur; streams and rivers snaking through valleys, some of them dammed up creating turquoise lakes; some of the lower hills were so green that it looked like Ireland. One sees so many images in the different rock formations – resembling animals, some like faces – strange shapes.

We stopped to photograph this quaint church and found these ladies sitting in the shade. They gave me permission to take their photos:)

http://africageographic.com/blog/video-time-lapse-photography-in-the-drakensberg/

The roads were good for the most part and we sailed along, stopping to click a photo here and there without the hindrance of other traffic. We skirted Lesotho and stopped in the lovely little town of Clarens – many art galleries, cafes and interesting little shops. Many of the buildings built using the local sandstone giving the place a very light and clean look; a village common in the centre of town added to its appeal.

Overnight at The Top House in Ladybrand and another wonderful dinner at Living Life.

We crossed the border from the Kingdom of Swaziland back into South Africa at Secundsa. The border crossings are rather quaint; one parks and goes in to be greeted by very friendly customs officials who take great joy in stamping  the life out of your passport! This happens at both the departure and entry points.

As soon as we crossed into S. Africa we spent about 25 km attempting to dodge potholes that became the width of the road! I was driving and was quite enjoying the slalom method of driving! Once we arrived in Piet Rietef the road surface improved considerably and we had the road pretty much to ourselves, which was great when we wanted to stop and take pictures of the majestic scenery or the little thatch roofed communes.

At a 4-way stop in the “dorp” of Wakkerstrom we noticed a rather interesting little row of shops so took a break to stretch our legs.

The 400 km drive unfolded with interesting things to see along the way, beautiful scenery; farmland, corn and hay; forests with beautiful tall and straight pines and trees we have to find out the name of. Little hamlets some more elegant than others, washing hanging out to dry; cattle and goats along the side of the road and sometimes crossing; beautiful farm houses or ranches surrounded by shade trees, and herds of gorgeous looking cattle grazing in the fields.

Our accommodation for the night: Naunton’s Guest House. Dinner at The Guinea Fowl.

Kruger was much as expected and we only saw a tiny portion of it on our drive from Phabeni Gate to Malelane Gate. We did, however, see some very amusing impalas bounding around, some waterbok, kudu, a little turtle wandering down the road, as well as a family of giraffe taking a Sunday stroll. My leopard (in the tree) was elusive, and a good reason to return!! I promise – this is the last of the animal pictures!!!

We took the somewhat infamous R40 from Timbevati Reserve south to Hazyview. The reason for infamy being that we were warned of “fake” police who stop you for “violations” and demand cash on the spot! We saw no such people early on a Sunday morning – they were probably recovering from the Saturday night! It was interesting to pass through townships and see people dressed to the 9’s walking along the roadside to church and other activities. Funny little car wash stations all the way – we could have used one, but didn’t stop!

After a short Kruger drive we left via the Malelane Gate and arrived at our accommodation there – the Riverhouse Lodge – what a place! Very eclectic with massive collections of everything, but it all works wonderfully. They have a barn-like structure with comfortable furnishings that overlooks the river and we saw a small herd of elephants, hippos, and a croc!

Our week of being at these two game lodges has come to an end! We’ve been on 14 game drives and have seen the BIG FIVE many times over! Quite amazing really. I feel as though we gave it enough time and weren’t on “Ferrari Safari” (as the locals call a quick drive through game parks)!

Because we saw pretty much the same animals as we saw over at Shindzela, I have put them all on one post.

There were two female lions, who were not nearly as energetic or well-fed looking as the Shindzela pride. Evidently these two are a break-off from a large pride that has moved away. Elephants, impala, baboons, buffalo, giraffes, zebras, hyenas,  etc. are plentiful everywhere; rhino and hippos not so much over here, but we saw them. We saw a brand new baby buffalo with its mother, but didn’t pursue it to photograph for fear of scaring it. We saw a bush baby last night, but it was moving too quickly and in the dark, so was impossible to photograph. I’ve especially enjoyed looking for different birds and we have now seen the fish, battalia, tawny and marshall eagles; several vultures; hundreds of hoop bills, an endangered Ground Hoopbill,  and many other varieties  whose names I’ve forgotten!! Oops! We saw two leopards, once again at night, and nigh on impossible to photograph as they moved away from us. It was my dream to see one hanging on a tree branch – maybe in Kruger tomorrow?

From Shindzela we drove about 30 km to Gomo Gomo which is in the Klaserie Reserve. It is very similar to Shindzela in size and style (8 chalets), but the accommodations are nice thatched roof chalets built of brick with tile flooring, a verandah on the front overlooking the waterhole, and a large indoor bathroom with tub and shower. The lodge, also thatched, has a lounging space and eating area for lunch and breakfast. Dinner is eaten outside around an open fire.

The drives schedule is also pretty much the same, but the drives are quite different in that our guide (Jakobus) does not tend to go off trail and into the bush the way Sam did. Nonetheless, it is very enjoyable taking the drives and in between time sitting under a lovely big tree watching Maribou Storks, elephant, impala and more come to the water/mud hole.

We started out by seeing a herd of zebras with a couple of youngsters – their markings are so striking and beautiful.

… and then just down the trail we found this magnificent White Rhino! After our elephant charging experience, we were a little nervous, but Sam said there would be no problem since rhinos’ eye-sight is very poor – they go by sound and smell. He even made rhino noises and it came closer – about 3 meters away – but then turned once it realized we weren’t other rhinos!

A little mongoose was in the middle of the trail ..

and then it was time for our sundowner and a most amazing sunset ever!

We started our afternoon drive with a good sighting of a kudu – such a handsome creature!

We tracked the lion pride to their riverbed where we found the three cubs nursing – another unusual and great sighting! It never ceases to amaze me how close we can get to them and how calm they are.

On our way back to camp – in the dark! – Sam spotted a tiny chameleon on a bush alongside the trail!!!

Our morning game drive started by tracking some hyenas and we found them not too far from the buffalo carcass, which was still being guarded by the lions (more on that). There were six or seven rather attractive and well-groomed hyenas, who didn’t seem to mind at all that we were clicking photos of them and a couple of them came up to within a couple of feet of the vehicle.

The lions had reduced the buffalo to a carcass of bones and skin – in just over 12 hours – and they were all cleaned up with no sign of the carnage from the evening before.

We saw quite a variety of birds, more elephants, warthog, buffalo, and a water bok.

Sam was tracking lion prints going back and forth on the track – he didn’t tell us at the time, but he thought it meant they had a kill. Shortly thereafter we encountered one lion chewing on a baby buffalo; within 100 feet we found most of the remainder of the pride with a dead adult buffalo. It was a pretty gruesome sight, but evidently not one that is often seen, and we viewed the spectacle for about 30 minutes or more from our vehicle and within 15 feet of the lions.  Evidently they didn’t think we were a threat!!!  The cubs were in the thick of it and holding their own against the adults. They were a real mess – their faces pretty much blood and guts soaked! Their bellies were full (Sam said they eat 40 kg in a session) and they were exhausted and panting from the effort! He said that in all likelihood they took down the baby and the mother probably when to its aid, and they attacked and killed her also which was no easy feat. A short distance away was a small pond and we were able to observe them taking long draughts of water – once again at a very close distance.

Not long afterwards and as the light was turning a beautiful golden color, we found a herd of elephants frolicking and bathing in a pond.