Valencia

So glad we made the short stop-over in Valencia, and our apartment was situated within walking distance of most of the highlights which made it especially nice.


We took the three-hour free walking tour with Elena as our guide. Once again we were given so much anecdotal information as well as history. These tours are the best!

We started at Plaza de Virgen – behind the cathedral – and witnessed the end of the Fire Festival,  heralding the start of Spring, where the Virgen statue was totally covered in flowers. Had we known about the Fire Festival (Fallas Festival), we should have arrived a couple of days earlier and experienced the bonfires and celebrations in plazas throughout the city!


As we all know, Valencia is famous for its oranges, and Elena told us about the popular beverage Agua de Valencia which, of course, we had to sample.

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The main market building was one of the striking buildings we saw with a beautiful central dome, lots of lovely ceramic tiles, and leaded windows. One of them displaying the Valencia coat of arms with the two-Ls (given by King James when Valencia twice showed loyalty to his reign, and the bat which is part of Valencia’s lore.

Today’s options are so great ….

Traveling has changed so much in the age of smart phones and internet! In the past we would drive and then find an accommodation or place to eat purely. Y chance, luck, economy or availability! Now, we can  research the best options, book in advance and locate via gps!

Before we get on the road – a few more pics from Sevilla.


We wanted to leave Sevilla for Marbella and make a stop for a nice Sunday lunch – Spanish style!  I found Bodega la Mazaroca on TripAdvisor in a small town – Arahel- about 45 minutes out of Sevilla. A little whitewashed town with narrow streets lined with row houses. We tracked down la Mazaroca, but so did everyone else in the area (Spaniards, not gringos!)!!! We secured two standing places at the bar and proceeded to take a guess at what we were ordering. Everything being produced and delivered looked incredible!

Oh! Spanish olives that we buy so cheaply? And all the olive oil we consume? Yeah! As far as the eye can see here in this part of Andalusia- olive groves.

Happy to be settled for a week at Marriott Beach Resort Marbella where we can explore some of the lovely white hill towns that we love!

The food of Galicia

I had heard about the amazing food in Galicia long before we even planned this trip. We have not been disappointed! Walking through the market one sees an abundance of freshly caught fish, beautiful beef, lamb and pork and so many different types of cheeses and sausages! Oh! and chocolate, pastries and cakes that are found in the Pasterias! And then there is the olive oil and the wonderful wines! One of the specialty cakes is the St. James’ Almond Cake which is decorated with the St. James’ Cross.

Another fabulous thing in Santiago DC is that a complimentary plate or two of tapas are served with first drink order.

Outside the market this delicious looking octopus (pulpo)  was being cooked in a large tub. It was served on the little wooden plates by cutting into bite size pieces, seasoning with salt and pepper and then drizzling with olive oil! I wanted it so badly, but we were going to have a delicious lunch and I couldn’t spoil my appetite! Ps. I found some on the road to Salamanca and we had it for our picnic lunch!

Our picnic of pulpo, cheese, bread and wine!


We lingered over an amazing lunch at O Curra da Parra.

 

Porto

The day started out with drizzle and light rain for most of our drive from Obidos to Porto, but we still enjoyed passing through the small towns along the way.

Our hotel, Castelo de Santa Catarina, is rather more ornate than we are accustomed to, but it is fun staying in a castle with tiled turret!

As we left the hotel in mid-afternoon the skies cleared. It is all downhill from our castelo to the river (Douro) through the centre of town where many of the buildings have tile facades, and to the historic district (Ribeira) and riverside with its narrow cobbled streets and where port wine is produced. There are many, many cafes and small bars where one can sample the local wines and ports.

Our tapas/evening meal was taken at Wine Quay Bar on the terrace overlooking the promenade and river. Delicious sardines in a tomato sauce, warm bread, olive oil, and spicy chorizo.

Luckily we only had to trek part way up the hill – to the metro station and the metro train, which delivered us back close to the hotel.

 

O Manjerico!

Everything about O Manjerico in Prazeres is a little different from the norm – from procuring a reservation, to the actual dining experience. I read about the restaurant on Trip Advisor and it sounded good and not too far from our place for night driving. Reservations were recommended and so I attempted to call without success, but then wrote them a message on Facebook requesting a reservation. The response was positive but also inquiring what we would like to eat! I’d read how good the stuffed chicken was, so went with that!


We arrived for our dinner to this lovely little stone building with no obvious outward appearance that it was a restaurant. In we went to a cozily decorated room with fireplace ablaze and a warm welcome from the proprietor. Seated in front of the fire, there was just one other table set for two and we were soon joined by a young Dutch couple. 

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The meal itself was absolutely delicious. Starting with fresh, home-baked bread and a platter consisting melted Brie, stuffed mushrooms, shrimp, short ribs with a delicious sauce, and little meat-filled puffs.

 

 The entire evening was very leisurely and we enjoyed conversation with the proprietor and also the other couple; experiences  whilst on Madeira, living on the island, the U.S. political situation, the pending Dutch elections, and much more.


The deboned roasted chicken stuffed with pork, chestnuts and raisins was absolutely delicious.


 … and dessert! Oo-la-la! Passion fruit mousse, which resembled key lime cheesecake, topped with fresh passion fruit!


 We definitely saved the best for last! Salad for the next few days!!

Over the top or through the center – Madeira

Up and up, round and round and over the top of the mountains and back down the other side – we love these roads that twist and turn and offer a slice of a village, a jaw-dropping precipice, or a glimpse of ocean.

Or there is the faster way – roads that are a series of tunnels that have been burrowed through the mountains or the cliffs along the coastlines. The tunnels vary in length up to the longest one we went through at 3.1 km, and  on the newer roads they are lined and illuminated, whereas the tunnels on the secondary roads are older, hand-hewn and dark! I read somewhere that there are more tunnels on this small island than in Switzerland!

A visit to the rum factory in Porto da Cruz. I love the poncha (punch) made of orange juice, rum, honey and passion fruit!

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After visiting the Whale Museum, we stopped for another delicious seafood lunch at Muralas Bar in Canical – a simple and busy little restaurant with many local families enjoying a leisurely lunch. (Local mussels with garlic, parsley and butter, grilled shrimp, and scabbard fish and chips).

We set off to hike to Ponta de Sao Lourenco, but with unsuitable shoes and full tummies, we decided to only go part way and back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Honey and cheese

I bought this honey directly from the bee-keeper at the market in Ponta Delgada (Azores). It is the most flavorful honey I have ever had – this particular one is clover – or so he told me! We are enjoying it on the delicious Portuguese bread with salted butter or sharp cheese – as we learned at Taberna Acor….


Yesterday we enjoyed limpets in garlic butter at Restaurante Caravela in Sao Vicente (Madeira). Local flavours abound

Up and down and round and round

Today took us to the north shore up and down and round and round. These roads are not for those who don’t like driving, but we both love it! Once again over mountain ridges, through cattle zones, tidy villages, and views that never end.

We saw the most amazing surf along the northern shore. It was absolutely mesmerizing.

Other than the surf, another huge highlight was taking a cable car down the very steep cliffs to the beach – or just above it. The telerifico in Achades de Cruz is definitely worthwhile but not for the faint-hearted or those who suffer with vertigo!

Eats today included a roadside picnic and dinner at Chico’s in Pezares.

Evening calm

Ponta Delgada and the western corner of Sao Miguel

The weather forecast called for showers today, but they moved through overnight and we had another beautiful day in which to explore more of this gorgeous island.

We started in Ponta Delgado with a walk to the fort and military museum. The fort dates from the 16th century and is in use today by the Portuguese military. From there a walk to visit the small but beautiful Jardim Antonio Borges (gardens) with many fine tree specimens, grottos and flowering shrubs.

Ponta Delgado is a very walkable and easy town to navigate. The narrow roads are cobbled using the volcanic rock and the pavements all have a mosaic design.

Lunch was at Acores Grill where one chooses from various selections of meat and you grill yourself at the table.

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We drove westwards to Sete Cicades and the beautiful crater lakes Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde. Legend is that a princess with green eyes fell in love with a shepherd with blue eyes. The union was not permitted by the King causing the princess and shepherd to cry and cry with their tears forming two lakes, one green and one  blue.

Taking dirt roads we ended up in Mosteiros to see the sunset which eluded us in the last few minutes. Nevertheless it was lovely sitting on the black rocks listening to and watching the surf crash onto the rocks and black sand beach.

First taste of São Miguel

Four and one-half hours after leaving Boston on a full and bumpy flight we descended in darkness and touched down on a small speck of land in the Atlantic 2,625 km from North America and 1,815 km from mainland Europe (Portugal). São Miguel Island, also referred to locally as “The Green Island”, is the largest and most populous island in the Portuguese archipelago (9) of the Azores.  Jet-lagged, from losing one night of sleep, we set off to explore the famed Lagoa do Fogo (Lagoon of Fire) one of the beautiful crater lakes.

We also visited Monumenta da Caldeira Velha, natural thermal pools set in the mountainside with waterfalls of warm water and one pool with water bubbling through the surface at 160 C. We weren’t prepared to take a dip ourselves, but will likely return – it looks like a great way to spend an hour or so.

The island is small enough that at a central high point, one can see the northern and southern coastlines (approximately 12 km across). It reminds of a cross between western Ireland, Hawaii, and New Zealand.  Every untouched surface is covered in green – either moss or ferns – and Camelias, hydrangeas, lilies, Azalias, agapanthus, and much, much more grow abundantly alongside the roads and lanes. Healthy looking cattle graze lazily in paddocks and fields with never a worry that their food supply will end. It is said that cattle outnumber humans on the island!

We ate dinner at Cafe Conto do Cais, a fabulous cafe in an old building, in Capelas.

After spending only 12 hours on this island, I have to say that never in my life have I met such genuinely welcoming and friendly people.

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Michelstadt with friends

Wolfgang and Elke took us on a day trip to Michelstadt, in the Odenwald. An old, walled town filled with fachwerk houses and a very lovely Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market).

Followed by meeting up with Bjorn and Erik for tapas at Bodega, a spanish restaurant in Wiesbaden. Lots of fun!

Around Wiesbaden and Out on the Town

More wandering the streets of Wiesbaden with our friend, Sue, who flew in for the weekend!

A ride up to Neroberg to see the Russian Chapel.

Relaxing few hours spent at the Thermal Bad

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An evening out on the town to see the shop windows, lights of the Weihnachtsmarkt, and a few songs at der Eimer!!

Trips down memory lane

Another glorious day with a clear blue sky, brilliant sunshine and sharp frost on the meadows for a drive into the Taunus mountains and to Idstein – a beautiful old market town where I once (in a former life) owned a lovely half-timber (fachwerk) house.

… and here is Kreuzgasse 42 with attached barn.

From there we traversed the country side with the goal of arriving in Fulda in time for lunch. Unfortunately, “MathildaII” (the car’s built-in gps system) had different routing for us! Anyway, we arrived in time for a beer at the craft brew Wiesenmuhle (restaurant closed) and onward for afternoon tea or coffee and delicious cake at a Konditorei very near the Fulda Dom. We sat at a table with a similarly aged lady who spoke impeccable english and enjoyed a lengthy conversation about politics!! Hmmm!

We managed a quick visit to St. Michael’s church, from 1194; spectacularly simple in design – quite beautiful.

Leaving Fulda, we were rewarded with the most dazzling sunset – rivaling those in Arizona! – which lasted for a good 45 minutes.

Dinner at traditional restaurant in Rambach, where Dennis had his long-awaited Zigeuner Schnitzel! and then home to some Lebkuchen!!!

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