Driving from Frankfurt to Wiesbaden felt so natural and normal – not like it’s been 28 years!! and once we got into the center of town everything was so familiar and beautiful. Having the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) in the market place and on Kirchgasse makes it even more special. We have a whole week to explore old haunts and the surrounding countryside and catch up with some old friends.
In the week we’ve been here we’ve tried a variety of local restaurants, but this evening’s was a real local charm – Yvette’s – a restaurant in a home. Being Friday, it was filling up with local couples out for a TGIF meal. The waitress and young waiter, both family members, were so friendly and obviously well loved by the locals.
We’ve had to stay reasonably close to the resort because night time driving isn’t optimal! but even though this is the quiet side of the island, we’ve had plenty of options.
I’ve had seafood virtually every night we’ve eaten out – grouper several times – and this evening enjoyed a delicious whole red snapper cooked in a creole sauce and served with fried plantain and rice and beans!!! it was wonderful.
We enjoyed one of the best meals EVER at one of Maine Farmland Trust’s Schoolhouse Suppers at their beautiful venue – The Hub – in Unity (a restored former schoolhouse).
Chef Anders Tallberg of Roustabout in Portland served up a veritable Italian feast using the freshest of fresh produce.
Another of those perfect summer evenings spent doing things we love in our home town, and where everyone and everything is bathed in the magical golden light of summer.
Starting out with ” lobstah” at Young’s – a traditional Maine lobster pound….
Followed by the weekly Summer Nights music at Steamboat Landing….
An evening stroll on the Harbor Walk and footbridge….
Staying on an ostrich farm we decided to take a tour and learn more about these indigenous creatures! We now know: their feathers are anti-static and are being used by car manufacturers to remove dust before painting; the males are black and white, while the females are a grey color because the females sit on the nest during the day and blend into the earth tones, while the males perform that duty at night! Why does an ostrich stick its head in the sand? the nest is a hole in the ground about 3 ft in diameter and 1 ft deep. The eggs have to be turned twice a day and when the male and female change shift sitting on the nest they turn the eggs. When turning the eggs, it appears that they have their head stuck in the sand!!! Fully grown they weight up to 120 kg. and they live to about 50 years of age. They lost the ability to fly because they can pretty much out run any predator. The industry has suffered due to bird flu and our host had to slaughter his flock in 2011 because of one infected bird. The meat is essentially the same as beef fillet but very low in cholesterol.
We took Rte 62 which followed and passed through more mountains and discovered that once we were on the south side (ocean side) everything became beautifully green and the landscape opened up to orchards, vineyards, and acre upon acre of wheat fields.
Stellenbosch is a delightful university town which is bursting with cafes, wine bars, bistros and lovely Cape Dutch buildings.
Accommodations at Eendracht Hotel on Dorp Street (right downtown Stellenbosch) and dinner at Stellenbosch Kitchen – delicious rack of lamb and smoked pork loin!
The morning drive was very easy, and as usual, free of other traffic. We had the choice of making a 300 km loop down to the ocean and back up to Oudtshoorn or visiting Prince Albert and crossing the Swartberg Pass – we decided on the latter!
Initially the drive was on a pencil straight road through the Karoo bushland with goats, sheep (different breeds) and cattle grazing – very similar to northern Arizona – and corner chimneyed karoo style houses dotting the landscape. We drove closer and closer to the mountains until we took a turn that took us through a gorge with the most amazing rock formations- diagonally slanted sandstone blocks. The little town of Prince Albert was on the other side and we made a well-deserved stop to peruse the main street and enjoy delicious lemonade and apple pie on the porch of the Lazy Lizard. We also got caught in a sea of Merino sheep being herded out of the field and down the road!
Leaving Prince Albert we took the dirt road that goes over the Swartberg Pass. Whoo! what a ride – switchback turns with virtually no guard and we could see the trail winding its way up the mountain and then once reaching the summit, down the other side and hour and half later!
On the other side of Oudtshoorn we arrived at our destination: Rietfontein Ostrich Palace – an ostrich farm. We had ferocious winds that turned to a rain storm (much needed) during our dinner. The farm has been in family ownership since 1846 and was first ostrich farm in the valley. The buildings date from 1906 and our little “Emma’s Cottage” was luxury personified. The lounge and restaurant are in the former stables/barn converted into very comfortable and appealing settings.
Dinner was comparable with any first class restaurant anywhere in the world and comprised:
Ostrich liver pate with fresh-baked bread and candied figs
Mushroom stuffed with baked brie and cranberry
Black Forest Ham wrapped around fresh fig
Ostrich fillet with new potatoes, julienned carrots and beans
We crossed the border into Swaziland at Jeppe’s Reef and drove through the densely forested mountains to Piggs Peak. I don’t believe I have ever seen such tall and straight trees and we saw many logging trucks carrying the lumber that is used in the “post and beam” construction in these parts. The mountains and valleys are extremely scenic and we also enjoyed seeing the people as they went about their business at road side stalls, in small towns, and walking along the road. We saw lots of school children walking the road to or from school – many of them quite small – probably 7 or 8 years old. The local mode of transport – little white mini buses – zoom along and stop frequently to pick people up.
Just before Mbabane (the capital) we stopped at a glass making foundry where recycled bottles are used to make beautiful glassware. We saw a very innovative wine carafe with a dimple for holding ice to cool the wine, but decided against buying it due to difficulty taking it in our luggage. We also saw some beautiful locally woven silk, mohair, and cotton made into scarves, shawls, blankets, etc. and gorgeous colorful and finely woven baskets. Most of these products are created by local women and sold through cooperatives.
We skirted Mbabane and drove in the eZulwini valley making a stop at a Swazi cultural village. We had an excellent tour given by a young Swazi woman who explained life as it was in rural environments and how many of the cultural habits linger today. For example, it is legal to have more than one wife – in fact the King, whom we saw in a motor cavalcade on our way to this village! – has 16 wives and his father had 70 or so!!! A virgin wife costs 17 cows or the equivalent of 5,000 rand per cow! We continued our drive until we reached The Forester’s Arms where we are staying for one night. What a charming place! dating back to the 50’s it has all the old charm that one imagines. The staff were amazingly attentive and helpful and the women all wore traditional “mother-in-law dresses” (good dresses one would wear to visit or meet your mother-in-law!) The food was exceptional.