We crossed the border into Swaziland at Jeppe’s Reef and drove through the densely forested mountains to Piggs Peak. I don’t believe I have ever seen such tall and straight trees and we saw many logging trucks carrying the lumber that is used in the “post and beam” construction in these parts. The mountains and valleys are extremely scenic and we also enjoyed seeing the people as they went about their business at road side stalls, in small towns, and walking along the road. We saw lots of school children walking the road to or from school – many of them quite small – probably 7 or 8 years old. The local mode of transport – little white mini buses – zoom along and stop frequently to pick people up.

Just before Mbabane (the capital) we stopped at a glass making foundry where recycled bottles are used to make beautiful glassware. We saw a very innovative wine carafe with a dimple for holding ice to cool the wine, but decided against buying it due to difficulty taking it in our luggage. We also saw some beautiful locally woven silk, mohair, and cotton made into scarves, shawls, blankets, etc. and gorgeous colorful and finely woven baskets. Most of these products are created by local women and sold through cooperatives.

We skirted Mbabane and drove in the eZulwini valley making a stop at a Swazi cultural village. We had an excellent tour given by a young Swazi woman who explained life as it was in rural environments and how many of the cultural habits linger today. For example, it is legal to have more than one wife – in fact the King, whom we saw in a motor cavalcade on our way to this village! – has 16 wives and his father had 70 or so!!! A virgin wife costs 17 cows or the equivalent of 5,000 rand per cow!  We continued our drive until we reached  The Forester’s Arms where we are staying for one night. What a charming place! dating back to the 50’s it has all the old charm that one imagines. The staff were amazingly attentive and helpful and the women all wore traditional “mother-in-law dresses” (good dresses one would wear to visit or meet your mother-in-law!) The food was exceptional.

Shindzela is the epitome of my African dreams! A small camp in a private reserve, the accommodations are tented cabins with flush and shower in a covered verandah at the rear of the tent and small verandah with chairs in the front. There are eight such tented cabins and a central open thatched roof pavilion where one can plug in and charge electronic devices, lounge, eat breakfast, etc.

We have two game drives a day (each for three hours) at 6 a.m. and 4 p.m. Nine people fit in the rugged 4-wheel drive open vehicle along with our driver (Sam) and spotter/tracker (Jeffrey) who sits above the front bumper. These are not merely game drives – we are actually tracking the animals and drive wherever need be through the bush. One of the joys of the private reserve is that it’s not required to stay on the roads, but they can go where they want. There are only two vehicles and we rarely see one another except if there is some exceptional game to be observed and we are in radio contact.

The drive to Shindzela took us through the gate to Timbevati Private Nature Reserve and then about 18km on dirt tracks until we reached camp. The Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, adjoining the greater Kruger National Park, comprises of 53,392 hectares of private game reserve land. Since 1962, the reserve has been dedicated to conservation by maintaining the biodiversity of species. Currently, there are over 40 mammal species in the Timbavati private game reserve, including the Big Five which are, Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Buffalo and Elephant as well as 360 species of bird life. The Timbavati Reserve is located in the Limpopo province of South Africa.

Our schedule is: wake up at 5 – a cup of coffee and rusk then on the way at 6 a.m. As the sun is rising and it is still quite chilly. We take a 15 minute picnic break for a cup of coffee or tea and a muffin!

Return from drive by 9.30 for a delicious breakfast served in the pavilion.

Lounge around the pool or relax elsewhere until lunch at 2.30 p.m.

Set off for evening drive at 4 (with sundowner break during the drive) and return at 7 for another delicious meal. Dinner is served at 7.30 around an open pit fire (braaie) and illuminated by oil burning lamps and torches.

We have freedom of movement within the camp during the day, but at night are escorted to and from our tents – escort has rifle in hand!!!