From Shindzela we drove about 30 km to Gomo Gomo which is in the Klaserie Reserve. It is very similar to Shindzela in size and style (8 chalets), but the accommodations are nice thatched roof chalets built of brick with tile flooring, a verandah on the front overlooking the waterhole, and a large indoor bathroom with tub and shower. The lodge, also thatched, has a lounging space and eating area for lunch and breakfast. Dinner is eaten outside around an open fire.

The drives schedule is also pretty much the same, but the drives are quite different in that our guide (Jakobus) does not tend to go off trail and into the bush the way Sam did. Nonetheless, it is very enjoyable taking the drives and in between time sitting under a lovely big tree watching Maribou Storks, elephant, impala and more come to the water/mud hole.

We started out by seeing a herd of zebras with a couple of youngsters – their markings are so striking and beautiful.

… and then just down the trail we found this magnificent White Rhino! After our elephant charging experience, we were a little nervous, but Sam said there would be no problem since rhinos’ eye-sight is very poor – they go by sound and smell. He even made rhino noises and it came closer – about 3 meters away – but then turned once it realized we weren’t other rhinos!

A little mongoose was in the middle of the trail ..

and then it was time for our sundowner and a most amazing sunset ever!

We started our afternoon drive with a good sighting of a kudu – such a handsome creature!

We tracked the lion pride to their riverbed where we found the three cubs nursing – another unusual and great sighting! It never ceases to amaze me how close we can get to them and how calm they are.

On our way back to camp – in the dark! – Sam spotted a tiny chameleon on a bush alongside the trail!!!

Our morning game drive started by tracking some hyenas and we found them not too far from the buffalo carcass, which was still being guarded by the lions (more on that). There were six or seven rather attractive and well-groomed hyenas, who didn’t seem to mind at all that we were clicking photos of them and a couple of them came up to within a couple of feet of the vehicle.

The lions had reduced the buffalo to a carcass of bones and skin – in just over 12 hours – and they were all cleaned up with no sign of the carnage from the evening before.

We saw quite a variety of birds, more elephants, warthog, buffalo, and a water bok.

Sam was tracking lion prints going back and forth on the track – he didn’t tell us at the time, but he thought it meant they had a kill. Shortly thereafter we encountered one lion chewing on a baby buffalo; within 100 feet we found most of the remainder of the pride with a dead adult buffalo. It was a pretty gruesome sight, but evidently not one that is often seen, and we viewed the spectacle for about 30 minutes or more from our vehicle and within 15 feet of the lions.  Evidently they didn’t think we were a threat!!!  The cubs were in the thick of it and holding their own against the adults. They were a real mess – their faces pretty much blood and guts soaked! Their bellies were full (Sam said they eat 40 kg in a session) and they were exhausted and panting from the effort! He said that in all likelihood they took down the baby and the mother probably when to its aid, and they attacked and killed her also which was no easy feat. A short distance away was a small pond and we were able to observe them taking long draughts of water – once again at a very close distance.

Not long afterwards and as the light was turning a beautiful golden color, we found a herd of elephants frolicking and bathing in a pond.

We started tracking a pride of lions shortly after we left camp and found about 10 adults and three cubs relaxing in a dry stream bed. We sat and watched them for a good thirty minutes – what a joy! the cubs were constantly at play either with an adult’s tail, chewing on a piece of twig, climbing a slanted tree trunk, wrestling with one another. The adults lounged around and occasionally checked on the little ones and put them straight! I shot so many wonderful photos and cannot believe that I said “I have too many lion pics!”

We then found a huge herd of African buffalo wading through a pond and cooling themselves. A huge bull elephant chomping on foliage; eagles and other birds, springboks, waterboks, and other antelope types.

Our first drive in the afternoon after we arrived was amazing! We saw several lions with their three cubs – playing like any kittens! TWO leopards! one a male was hiding under a bush and I have no idea how Jeffrey spotted him, and then a female (also under a bush). By this time it was dark, but Jeffrey turned on a powerful torch for us to observe her. We saw African buffalo, an elephant, hippos, lots of birds and various antelope type animals.

The gash on the female leopard was caused during mating.

Beautiful evening bush scenery…

We passed through breathtakingly beautiful countryside  as we drove to and through Blyde River Canyon. Good roads made the drive even more enjoyable.

Blyde – meaning “happy” in Dutch – was named when some 1800’s trekkers returned safely  to the rest of their party who had considered them dead.

Blyde River Canyon is one of the greenest (due to lush sub-tropical vegetation) and has some of the deepest cliffs of any other canyon. It is 25 km. long and on average 2,500 feet deep and is part of the Panorama route, which certainly lives up to its name!

We arrived at our Ginnegap Guest House later than planned thanks to: long queues and many unmanned immigration booths at the airport; organizing rental car; getting sim card for phone; rush hour traffic around the city, and darkness setting in. It was all rather nerve-wracking and stressful, but we arrived safely and were able to walk about half a mile down the road to a wonderfully hip bistro type restaurant – Lucky Bean – where we had the most amazing meals and wine for a ridiculous amount of $$.

Breakfast was taken on the verandah! We decided to give the Apartheid Museum a pass and save Johannesburg for another visit – when we don’t have a rental car! We headed north to Pretoria and took a quick drive and short walk around (Church Square).

Onward through the most beautiful countryside for 380 km. to Lydenburg. Beautiful farmland with acres and acres of corn and sunflowers and wide open spaces.

Our guest house in Lydenburg, Aqua Terra , is set on several acres leading down to a small river, with lovely gardens and expansive views.