Khiva was a most unexpected and very pleasant surprise. Itchan Kala, as the fortified part of the city is known is considered the pearl of Uzbekistan – the city is surrounded by the Karalkum and Kyzylkum deserts where the caravans on the Silk Road journeyed. Cobbled streets, clay mosques, tiled palaces, elaborate patterns and majestic crenellated fortress walls create a magical atmosphere. The entire old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our first glimpse was of the illuminated towering minaret at the South Gate.
Our dinner included a treat of entertainment by these local musicians. Dinner was delicious and comprised the eggplant rolls stuffed with a smoky cheese, fabulous garlicky carrot salad, pumpkin soup, and green noodles (dill) with meat and veg.
According to legend, Khiva grew up around a well that was allegedly dug by Sim, the son of Noah. Archaeologists claim that Khiva already existed in the 6th century BC and was called Kheyvak. Before the Arab conquest, Khiva was a Zoroastrian city. In 712, after Qutayb Ibn Muslim came to power, scientists and representatives of noble families were destroyed in Khiva. In the 9th-11th centuries, Khiva was transformed into a major center of religion and science. In 1220, it was destroyed by Genghis Khan’s soldiers. In the 16th century, Uzbek nomadic tribes came to Khiva. In 1598, Khiva was proclaimed the capital of the Khanate of Khiva and in the first half of the 17th century became one of the Islamic centers when many mosques and madrassas were erected. In the 18th-19th centuries several majestic khan palaces were erected. In 1873, the Khanate of Khiva was partially conquered by Russian troops. In 1920, the last khan, Said Abdullah Khan, was overthrown in the city. In 1924, Khiva became part of the USSR. They gained independence on August 30, 1991.
The Kalta Minor minaret (Kalta Minar) is perhaps the most iconic landmark of the city. Translated from Uzbek, “kalta minor” means “short minaret”. According to the plan the height of the minaret was to reach 70-80 meters, which would make it the highest in the Muslim world. But in 1855 construction was stopped but the minaret was only 29 meters high! It was decorated with blue, green and white majolica and tiles and today Kalta Minor is one of the most beautiful minarets in Central Asia.
Mohammad Amin-Kahn Madrasa was built in 1855 next to the Kalta Minor. Both iconic buildings were constructed at the same time. This is the largest madrasa in Khiva with 125 cells, in which 260 students lived and studied.
Kunya Ark, the Khiva rulers’ fortress (a fortress within a fortress) and residence. This complex was built in 1686 with offices and mosques within its walls and only one gateway to enter and exit.
The Juma mosque was built in the 10th century. The building is unique in that it has neither portals nor domes. Inside the mosque there are 213 fossilized black elm columns supporting the ceiling. Each pillar is uniquely carved. Carved stone blocks support the pillars and between the two is a small metal cuff with camel wool inside. This simple piece of engineering was designed to absorb humidity from the ground, deter termites and provide some protection in an earthquake.
The narrow cobblestone streets offer lots of sights and opportunities for people watching! The many vendors selling fur hats, scarves, jewelry, robes and much more are entertaining but not aggressive at all.
Sunset in Khiva
