Lily Bay State park on Moosehead Lake is one of our favorites and we had a beautiful spot on the lake with our own very little beach.
Ffly enjoyed daily swims
Sunrise from our beach
The scenery in this part of the state is stunning, especially with the fresh grass and leaves.
We went twice on moose safari – early in the morning and at dusk – without any sightings, but we believe we’ve found a good swampy spot for future safaris. These safaris entailed bouncing around on logging roads without seeing a single moose soul.
Lazy Tom’s swamp
We finally spotted a young moose on a dirt road as we were driving back to Lily Bay! Otherwise I thought the only moose I’d see was the one at Stress Free Moose Pub in Greenville!
We crossed the Chesapeake Bay from Norfolk to the Eastern Virginia shore and spent two nights amongst the dunes on Asseateague. We were visited by some of the roaming wild ponies (you are warned to keep a distance of 40 feet and to remove all food items from the campsite.)
We were incredibly lucky with the weather and enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the bay and an amazing sunrise over the Atlantic.
We walked the deserted beach for miles and Ffly enjoyed the freedom of running to her heart’s consent.
We returned to Fort Fisher on Cape Fear, NC. This place epitomizes a southern coastal community with it’s long, sandy beach, palm trees, and colorful stilted beach homes. It is my dream to rent one of these and enjoy my morning coffee on the balcony or terrace overlooking the ocean.
We stopped in Wilmington to visit Airlie Gardens and had our Spring flower hors d’ouevres! Yes, we will be following Spring and passing it by at some point and it will arrive after us!
The private gardens were created in 1886 by Mrs Jones, of the Pembroke Jones family, and the name “Airlie” came from their home in Scotland. It was designed as a natural Southern garden with azaleas, camellias, magnolias, palms and wisteria. In 1999 it was purchased by New Hanover County and made into a public garden. In 2018 more than 300 trees were felled by Hurricane Florence. There are so many beautiful live oaks throughout the park, several of them more than 400 years old.
I particularly like to look closely at all that is growing on the oaks.
Colors abound with the camellias, azaleas and tulips.
Birds and turtles
My favorites .. the dogwood!
And then several hours north (to the east of Washington, NC) is this idyllic state park – Goose Creek State Park – with beautiful private camp spaces surrounded by swaying grasses and jumping Border Collies!
We left our beloved beach in Mayport and the nearby jungle trails and started our slow trek northwards.
First stop is Parris Island, SC at the Marine Corps Training Station. This morning we witnessed the graduation of six platoons, each with about 40 young marines, as they took part in their graduation parade. I always love a good military parade!
Our campsite is down the road from Elliot beach where we saw a beautiful sunset and full moon yesterday.
Today we explored Beaufort a little – we’ve been there before and love the beautiful historic homes on streets overhung with Spanish moss. Here’s a sneak peek! We’ll be back tomorrow for the farmers market and more wanderings.
Despite being on the outskirts of Jacksonville, we are fortunate to have the St. Johns River, the expansive beach and the unspoiled coastal wetlands of the Timucuan Preserve nearby. (See us at the blue dot!)
We are at the BLUE DOT
We visited the Timucuan Preserve twice for lovely walks through the hardwood hammocks where the beautiful spanish moss drapes the trees, and the salt marshes are a haven for birdlife .
The Theodore Roosevelt area (above) encompasses 600 acres and was bequeathed by Willie Browne. It’s considered one of the greatest gifts in the city of Jacksonville’s history. More on Willie Browne and his family here.
It is thought that there is 6,000 years of human history in this area and one can see ancient piles of discarded oyster shells which was thought to be the staple diet of the Timucuan and yields clues to an extinct culture.
these shells entangled in the roots of a fallen tree.
The St. Johns River and Ribault Column (part of the Fort Caroline National Memorial).
On the other side of the naval station and alongside the river we discovered this HUGE seafood market (Safe Harbor) and jointly owned restaurant where the fish is offloaded right in front of you.
More fun times with Ffly on the beach…
sugar soft sand
having the beach to yourself
watching the ships go by
Help! Help! you see that big Irish Wolfhound that might get me??????
A face only a dog mother could love!!! After diving through the waves and then rolling in the sand!!!
The story and the art of Vincent van Gogh has fascinated me since I was in my teens. I remember reading a biography – inches thick – that kept me spellbound! How can a person experience and produce so much in 37 short years? About 2,100 artworks of which 860 were oil paintings. Born into relative privilege and yet living in poverty and suffering deep depression. His friendship with fellow-artist Gauguin ended in tragedy when he cut off part of his ear with a razor! and then suicide – all before he became recognized as a great artist.
We were happy to be able to go to Boston to visit one of the many van Gogh exhibits in the country. It truly was immersive and we were thrilled to sit in a deckchair in the Strand Theatre and see his works of art literally come to life all around us – 360 degrees!
The photos and videos below are from the 360 degree immersive experience.
We saved Reykjavik for last and I’m glad we did as the drive from Selfoss here (only about 65km) was pretty testy with winds at 65km/h and whiteouts with blowing snow at times. We checked in to our lovely hotel Eyja Guldsmeden early and spent the rest of the day in the cosy ambiance of our room and the general seating areas.
We jumped on a bus to ride part of the way to the city centre and then joined one of our beloved Free Walking Tours. Erik (for short) was, as usual, a fabulous guide who took us to some of the interesting spots while informing us of the history and sharing many other anecdotes.
Iceland’s White House
Homes and buildings in the very village-like old part of town. Structures built of wood in the 19th century, but many of them now sided with aluminum to protect against the harsh weather.
Shop windows and other street scenes
Harpa
Rainbow street
Ugly cat from Christmas cat fable
A statue of the first Icelander – Ingolfer Arnason who immigrated from Norway in 874. Over a relatively short period of time during the 10th century there were 20,000 settlers who arrived and claimed farmland in Iceland and it is said that every Icelander today is a descendant of one of those 20,000.
The harbor and lake
Hallgrimskirkja (Hallgrims Church) commissioned in 1937 and designed by Guðjón Samúelsson who is said to have designed it to resemble the trap rocks, mountains and glaciers of Iceland’s landscape. It took 41 years to build with construction starting in 1945 and one of the main features is the huge pipe organ by German organ builder Johannes Klais.
We’ve had amazing food during this trip – mostly locally produced. The traditional lamb soup/stew with hearty root vegetables, cod, Arctic char, salmon, herring, rhubarb cake, beet salads, hamburgers with bernaise sauce, skyr (Icelandic yogurt), different breads and crisp breads – to name some. All of it very good.
As the sun was rising the reflection on the snowy mountains was like icing on a cake.
Some of the houses and farm buildings along the way.
Lunch stop in Vik at Sudur Vik, a lovely little restaurant in an old and charming house on the hilltop overlooking Vik and the ocean.
The sky and atmosphere was clear and dry, the temperatures between -6 and -10C, but the ponies are used to it.
At times it was like we were driving on a ribbon through fields of marshmallows! with spectacular mountains in the background.
A 5km drive along a snow packed road took us to Dyrhólaey lighthouse atop a cliff overlooking the miles long black sand beach stretching as far as the eye could see, and dramatic rocks.
The drive up to the lighthouse offered views of the mountains with beautiful reflections in the pools of aqua colored water.
Just before it got dark we arrived at our destination – Lambastadir Guesthouse situated on a farm complete with lovely red barn.
Last night we had the blackest sky and the shiniest of stars with no ambient light whatsoever, and when the sun rose this morning there was barely a cloud in the sky. Good karma!
We set off towards the east still on the south coast. The Arctic scenery is spectacular – mountains with glaciers and more mountains with more glaciers. Like something I have never seen before.
We arrived at Jökulsárlón (translated glacial river lagoon) in the southern part of Vatnajokull National Park and our jaws dropped at the sight of the aqua icebergs floating in the lagoon. Situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökul glacier, it developed into a lake after the glacier started receding from the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. In 2009 it was reported to be the deepest lake in Iceland, at over 284 m (932 ft). The size of the lake has increased fourfold since the 1970s.
Across the road (Rte 1) is Breiðamerkurjökul beach – also known as Diamond Beach – it’s a strip of fine black sand that is part of the Breiðamerkursandur outwash plain.
Overnight tonight at Foss Hotel Glacier Lagoon with views to the ocean and sunset.
Today started out very promising with a beautiful sliver of silver moon in the dawn sky.
and a visit to a store in Vik that had lovely woolen items to include nice Viking-style hats that my husband refused to have!
Things swiftly started going south as we got outside Vik and were heading east. The road and driving conditions were getting worse and we had over 200 km to drive to our next destination, Hofn, when we decided to abort and found a room in the small village of Kirkjubaejarklaustur (try saying it!) With 500 inhabitants and a special 4-legged one (later) it is the only place with services between Vik and Hofn, so a good thing that we stopped!
A little history from Wikipedia: Even before the time of the first Norse settlement in Iceland, Irish monks are thought to have lived here. Since 1186, a well known convent of Benedictine nuns, Kirkjubæjar Abbey, was located in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, until the Reformation in 1550.
The names of the waterfall Systrafoss (“waterfall of the sisters”) and of the lake Systravatn (“water of the sisters”) on the highland above the village refer to this abbey. Folk tales illustrate the history with stories about good and sinful nuns.The Systrastapi (sister’s rock) is where two of the convent’s nuns were buried after being burned at the stake. One of the nuns was accused of selling her soul to the Devil, carrying Communion bread outside the church, and having carnal knowledge with men; the other was charged with speaking blasphemously of the Pope. After the Reformation, the second sister was vindicated, and flowers are said to bloom on her grave, but not that of the first nun.
A very special and dear to my heart inhabitant welcomed us at Hotel Laki.
The sun came out and turned the surrounding landscape into a beautiful winter wonderland. No precipitation for tonight so we should be in good shape to continue onwards.
We set off with another beautiful sunrise and a good weather forecast for the day. I am so glad that longish range forecasts are often wrong, because it hadn’t looked good for this week and now we are delighted to have some sunny days! The windows in this farmhouse were aglow with the reflection from the rising sun.
Our first stop was Seljalandfoss (falls). There is a cavern behind the falls that can be accessed – I guess not in winter!
Driving is flat as we head eastward along the southern coast of Iceland with farmland and the Atlantic to our right and mountains and glaciers to the left.
We soon arrived at Skogafoss (falls) – a slightly more impressive fall.
We also visited the Skogar folk museum which houses an eclectic variety of artifacts dating back to the beginning of settlement on Iceland and had a lovely outdoor section with homes, church and school house.
bread mold
knitted shoe liners
Arriving in Vik, after driving a short distance through the mountains, our first sight was this beautiful view of the simple church atop a hill with snow-covered mountains and the ocean as a backdrop.
Sherry and I trekked down to the black beach in Vik ….
… and a after a short drive back (westwards) we stopped at Reynisfjara beach – another black beach with impressive surf that also has basalt column cliffs.
Onward to Volcano Hotel for the night – a room with a view!
We awoke to a winter wonderland! the small road we were on was snow packed and everything around us was white except for the fence posts and occasional herds of Icelandic ponies.
Taking it very easy we drove to the Geysir about 20km up the road from our hotel, but had to abort continuing on to Gullfoss. We’ll try and do that on our way back to Reykjavik.
The ponies are adorable; they must be very rugged to be outside in all weather. Evidently they are used for competitive racing.
We made a lunch stop at Fridheimar greenhouse farm. Tomatoes are grown year round in 11,000 square meters of electrically illuminated greenhouses – producing about 700 tons annually. The greenhouses are heated with the geothermal hot water (about 95C/203F) from a borehole just 200 meters from the greenhouses. Iceland has abundant “green electricity” generated by hydro and geo-thermal power plants. No pesticides are used in the greenhouses. The mirid bug is imported from Holland and eats just about all the pests found in Icelandic greenhouses. Bees are also imported from Holland for pollination.
The sun came out lighting up the stark white mountains, and the sky was like an artist’s palette with colors from light turquoise to purple to orange.
Driving is flat as we head eastward along the southern coast of Iceland with farmland and the Atlantic to our right and mountains and glaciers to the left.
