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Sagrada Familia

The story of Anoni Gaudi and Sagrada Familia is fascinating. An architect was hired to plan a church on this site, but resigned after just a few years. In 1883 Gaudi was hired and was able to infuse enough donations to redesign the building to his liking.

Gaudi poured his life into this project and he definitely gained his inspiration from nature. A deeply religious man, he made plans and plaster models (which he then photographed) of every aspect of the building. Wherever you look throughout the building there is evidence of nature – the columns representing trees, the light filtering through from above, the honeycomb shapes, and designs from geodes, leaves, flowers and any other natural thing. He knew, from conception, that he would not live to see the completion, and his life was cut short in an accident at the age of 74 in 1926. Therefore, the completion date of 2026 is to commemorate the centenary of his death.

It remains, to this day, a controversial edifice but architects and sculptors continue to put their stamp on this amazing design.

This is how it looked when I was last here in 1973:

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Gaudi and Modernism

We started off in the morning with a metro trip out to see the gurkin tower of Barcelona – Torre Agbar – which has some good reflections of buildings near by. We also came across an incredible market with miscellaneous goods on the top floor and a massive flea market below! Wow!

“Gaudi and Modernism” is the name of the Free Walking tour we took this afternoon, and as it turns out we spent much of the morning also strolling/walking the streets of the “modern” Barcelona – that is the planned section constructed at the end of the 19th and early 20th centuries. We learned today that the area was divided into equally sized plots or “mazanas” (I think 180 meters square) on which plain multi-storey villas were constructed. Each family then decorated the facade to their liking which often meant adding design or sculptures representing their business or their achievements.

From our arrival we have noticed how the buildings at the corners of the intersections or plazas are angled into the squares – they have 45 degree angles instead of 90 – providing much more light and space to the area. Evidently this was something that was planned, here in Barcelona, during the modernist times at the desire of the inhabitants.

Gaudi has, of course, had a huge influence on the city from sidewalk paving stones to houses commissioned throughout the city to the Basilica Sagrada Familia which, as we all know, remains unfinished to this day – 90 years after his death. The plan is for it to be completed by 2026, but I would say that is an optimistic goal. Evidently, in order to complete the entrance – according to his plans – it would require the closure of the street and the apartment building across the street would need to be demolished! The highest and largest tower is yet to be built and is designed to be 172.5 meters high. Cranes are still surrounding the constructions site and the area that I remember from 1972 is now in need of restoration!

It was a good day for being out on the streets and we clocked 18,842 steps/8.59 miles.

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For foodies and market lovers

Today is a drizzly, rainy day in Barcelona and the perfect day to visit some of the fabulous markets! We spent several hours wandering the aisles of  La Boqueria – or officially – Mercat de Sant Josep de La Boqueria! This huge public market is on the records back to 1217, and it still stands today as a huge market hub.

Don’t I wish I could shop here regularly!!!!

An extensive array of seafood…

Vibrant and fresh fruit and vegetables ..

Wonderful breads, meats, spices, legumes, gelato – anything your heart desires ..

 

 

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Barcelona

 

It’s been about 45 years! (How can that be?) since my friend and I hitch-hiked through France to Barcelona. My main memories from that trip are La Rambla and sangria! I remember the lovely shady pedestrian avenue with cafes and benches – and in particular, the bird cages with peoples’ birds tweeting and twirping and enjoying being outdoors. Today La Rambla is paved and there are no benches and no canaries! It is still fun to stroll, stop, and sit at a cafe and sip on a sangria and watch the people pass by, but I miss the old Rambla!

We took another of our beloved Free Walking Tours this morning, and Mitch, our guide – a Canadian from Saskatchewan – took us through the Gothic Quarter and we ended up at the waterfront. We started at the beautiful Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia and, once again, he shared much of the history of Barcelona from the time of the Romans until the Spanish Civil War. We visited many interesting buildings and squares and heard some great stories – some true and some more folklore than fact!

We had an absolutely delicious tapas evening meal at Bodega Biarritz and then another stroll through plazas and pedestrian streets.

 

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Valencia

So glad we made the short stop-over in Valencia, and our apartment was situated within walking distance of most of the highlights which made it especially nice.


We took the three-hour free walking tour with Elena as our guide. Once again we were given so much anecdotal information as well as history. These tours are the best!

We started at Plaza de Virgen – behind the cathedral – and witnessed the end of the Fire Festival,  heralding the start of Spring, where the Virgen statue was totally covered in flowers. Had we known about the Fire Festival (Fallas Festival), we should have arrived a couple of days earlier and experienced the bonfires and celebrations in plazas throughout the city!


As we all know, Valencia is famous for its oranges, and Elena told us about the popular beverage Agua de Valencia which, of course, we had to sample.

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The main market building was one of the striking buildings we saw with a beautiful central dome, lots of lovely ceramic tiles, and leaded windows. One of them displaying the Valencia coat of arms with the two-Ls (given by King James when Valencia twice showed loyalty to his reign, and the bat which is part of Valencia’s lore.

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Granada

We had to revisit this beautiful and diverse city named for the pomegranate – reminders of which can be found all over in the form of mosaics, paintings, engravings, etc. We chose not to visit the Alhambra this time (we’ve been before), but to take a walking tour of Albaicin and learn about the history of the region.

Briefly, the first muslims arrived in Spain in the 8th century, with noblemen from Arabia and armies of berbers. Albaicin is the site of a Moorish settlement from the early 1000s and the time of the Zirid kingdom – some sections of the citadel wall of that time remain. In the 1200s the Nasrid palaces of the Alhambra were built.

In December 1499, Albaicin become the boiling point of rebellion triggered by the forced conversions of the Muslim population to Christianity. Many of the churches in the district have since been converted from mosques with the bell towers modified from the minarets. Evidence of Moorish architecture and their stunning craftsmanship is found throughout.

 

The skylights in this 11th century hammam were originally colored glass and one can only imagine how the baths must have been when tiled.

From the steep and winding alleys of Albaicin there are magnificent views of the Alhambra and the snow capped Sierra Nevadas in the background.

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Casares

Our last Puebla Blanca! We so enjoy wandering through these villages and walked down and through and up the other side to the castle ruin.

It’s a dog’s life!!!

A private patio – what a view!

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More Andalusian villages – mostly white!

From Ronda we took roads that must have been former goat paths as we twisted and turned up, around, and down through the majestic mountains of Andalusia. The villages and towns Grazalema, Ubrique, Cortes de la Frontera, Algatocin, Atajate – to name a few – all have one thing in common – sparkling white and perching atop a mountain or nestled into the side of one.

.. and then there is Juzcar! Spain’s blue smurfs village! At one time it resembled all the other white villages, but changed its look in 2011 when it became the “first and official Smurfs village in the world.” The idea came from Sony Pictures as part of the campaign to promote The Smurfs movie. The locals agreed to temporarily paint all their buildings the bright blue, but the idea caught on and now Juzcar is benefitting from being different!

On our drives through the mountains we have noticed trees along the side of the road that have been stripped of their bark part way up – these are Quercus suber, commonly called the cork oak. The cork is harvested every nine years.

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Ronda

As described by Abú al Fidá (1273-1331)
[an] “…elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban, and its towers as a sword belt.”

Ronda is a wondrous city that is built above a deep gorge (El Tajo). On one side of the gorge, the old town dates back to the 15th century and Moorish rule; on the other side is the new town. One of the most spectacular features in the city is the Puente Neuovo, a stone bridge that spans the 400 ft. gorge. Named the “new bridge” – construction started in 1759 and was completed 34 years later!

There is always something to observe when strolling the narrow cobbled streets..

 

 

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Today’s options are so great ….

Traveling has changed so much in the age of smart phones and internet! In the past we would drive and then find an accommodation or place to eat purely. Y chance, luck, economy or availability! Now, we can  research the best options, book in advance and locate via gps!

Before we get on the road – a few more pics from Sevilla.


We wanted to leave Sevilla for Marbella and make a stop for a nice Sunday lunch – Spanish style!  I found Bodega la Mazaroca on TripAdvisor in a small town – Arahel- about 45 minutes out of Sevilla. A little whitewashed town with narrow streets lined with row houses. We tracked down la Mazaroca, but so did everyone else in the area (Spaniards, not gringos!)!!! We secured two standing places at the bar and proceeded to take a guess at what we were ordering. Everything being produced and delivered looked incredible!

Oh! Spanish olives that we buy so cheaply? And all the olive oil we consume? Yeah! As far as the eye can see here in this part of Andalusia- olive groves.

Happy to be settled for a week at Marriott Beach Resort Marbella where we can explore some of the lovely white hill towns that we love!

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Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos

We love to get away from the Costa del Sol and climb into the mountains that reach down to the Mediterranean.

…and visit the moorish pueblos blancos (white villages). These towns spill from the hilltops with their simple whitewashed houses influenced by the Berber architecture of North Africa.

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Gaucin

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.. and a view through the mountains to the sea and the Rock (Gibraltar)

 

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Sevilla

Yesterday as we approached. Salamanca, we saw what looked like snow capped mountains, but we thought it was a mirage!

Today, in the plains between Merida and Sevilla we saw vast – from horizon to horizon – plantings of olives and vineyards.  I don’t believe I’ve ever seen as much land covered with grapevines.

We arrived in Sevilla at about the busiest time – about 2.30 on a Saturday. However, we lucked out by finding a space in subterranean parking garage and walked the narrow, cobbled streets to our Hotel Cervantes (which has parking!)

Sevilla – I had completely forgotten how beautiful and full of life you are!

… and how huge and magnificent the cathedral is!

… and how good the sangria is!

… more