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Salamanca

We had a good, but fairly long drive from Santiago de Compostela to Salamanca partly because we didn’t take the autostrada, but enjoyed driving the N525. We passed through and saw some nice towns and villages and were especially happy to see a pair of storks on their nest.

Salamanca is a fairly large university city about 215 km from Madrid and 450 km to Seville. The old town has some magnificent buildings constructed with sandstone blocks and all seem very well preserved. The Plaza Major is immense and very beautiful. A fun place to hang out and people watch, as we did this afternoon. Unfortunately we are only passing through on our way to Seville and Marbella and overnighting at Hostellaria Sara.

 

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The food of Galicia

I had heard about the amazing food in Galicia long before we even planned this trip. We have not been disappointed! Walking through the market one sees an abundance of freshly caught fish, beautiful beef, lamb and pork and so many different types of cheeses and sausages! Oh! and chocolate, pastries and cakes that are found in the Pasterias! And then there is the olive oil and the wonderful wines! One of the specialty cakes is the St. James’ Almond Cake which is decorated with the St. James’ Cross.

Another fabulous thing in Santiago DC is that a complimentary plate or two of tapas are served with first drink order.

Outside the market this delicious looking octopus (pulpo)  was being cooked in a large tub. It was served on the little wooden plates by cutting into bite size pieces, seasoning with salt and pepper and then drizzling with olive oil! I wanted it so badly, but we were going to have a delicious lunch and I couldn’t spoil my appetite! Ps. I found some on the road to Salamanca and we had it for our picnic lunch!

Our picnic of pulpo, cheese, bread and wine!


We lingered over an amazing lunch at O Curra da Parra.

 

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Santiago de Compostela

Legend dictates that the apostle James took Jesus’s request to “go forth and spread the Word” literally and ended up in Finisterre (end of the world) having past through this area preaching and gathering followers. He returned to Jerusalem in 44AC where he was killed, but his disciples stole his body and brought his remains back to this area in a stone boat. A mausoleum was erected and the remains buried in a secret hilltop location. In the 9th century a bright star shining on the field (“field of the star” = campus stella – later renamed Compostela) led to the discovery of the tomb. The local Bishop received notice of the event and alerted the King (AlfonsoII) who declared that a church be built on the site and St. James be the patron. (St. James is one of the patron saints of Spain). In the 13th century, the Pope named Santiago de Compostela a holy town, third in importance after Rome and Jerusalem and a cathedral was erected over the original chapel which housed the tomb of St. James.

To this day pilgrimages are made and we observed a small group of backpackers arriving via Camino Franco to the Cathedral Square (Praza Do Obradoiro). According to our guide, if a pilgrim walks 100km (or cycles 200km) to Santiago de Compostela, they are awarded a special certificate, however, many pilgrims make shorter pilgrimages on one of the seven main routes, all of which have clam shells directing the way. (Note the clamshell on the pilgrims backpack!)

Obviously the city is steeped in history, and one feels it and witnesses it when walking the paved streets.

Once again, there are many opportunities to sample and see the local food specialties.  We enjoyed tapas and the local wine and beer at some of the many eating establishments.

And then there are the “two Marias” – two eccentric sisters who dressed flamboyantly, wore a lot of make-up and enjoyed promenading through Alameda park and flirting with university students at 2 o’clock every day! A statue to commemorate the two women was made by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994.

We spent several hours in the late afternoon and early evening relaxing and watching young families, children, students, dogs and their walkers in a park overlooking the city.

Our hotel San Bieito is a modern filing with a very old shell! A great find which is tucked away in the old town.

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Porto on foot

We took the Free Porto Walking Tour this morning – we love these tours and take them whenever they are offered in cities we visit. The guide is usually young and offers some different insights and snippets of information on the city.  This one, like most others, was three-hours long and we covered much of Porto’s history and many interesting facts.

Clocking in at 17,353 steps, 7.91 miles, and 55 sets of stairs! Almost all on cobblestones!

This post’s photos are all sights of Porto but through an artistic filter.

 

Views of the city of Porto from the two-tiered iron bridge  – the Dom Luis I bridge (completed in 1886)

Steep alleys twisting down from town to the river.

The ubiquitous Pastela de Nata. An evening glass of port.

The bridge upwards from the lower tier. Port crates.

Alongside the Duoro at dusk in Gaia (across from Porto).

Graffiti – the artist’s grandfather.

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Porto

The day started out with drizzle and light rain for most of our drive from Obidos to Porto, but we still enjoyed passing through the small towns along the way.

Our hotel, Castelo de Santa Catarina, is rather more ornate than we are accustomed to, but it is fun staying in a castle with tiled turret!

As we left the hotel in mid-afternoon the skies cleared. It is all downhill from our castelo to the river (Douro) through the centre of town where many of the buildings have tile facades, and to the historic district (Ribeira) and riverside with its narrow cobbled streets and where port wine is produced. There are many, many cafes and small bars where one can sample the local wines and ports.

Our tapas/evening meal was taken at Wine Quay Bar on the terrace overlooking the promenade and river. Delicious sardines in a tomato sauce, warm bread, olive oil, and spicy chorizo.

Luckily we only had to trek part way up the hill – to the metro station and the metro train, which delivered us back close to the hotel.

 

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O Manjerico!

Everything about O Manjerico in Prazeres is a little different from the norm – from procuring a reservation, to the actual dining experience. I read about the restaurant on Trip Advisor and it sounded good and not too far from our place for night driving. Reservations were recommended and so I attempted to call without success, but then wrote them a message on Facebook requesting a reservation. The response was positive but also inquiring what we would like to eat! I’d read how good the stuffed chicken was, so went with that!


We arrived for our dinner to this lovely little stone building with no obvious outward appearance that it was a restaurant. In we went to a cozily decorated room with fireplace ablaze and a warm welcome from the proprietor. Seated in front of the fire, there was just one other table set for two and we were soon joined by a young Dutch couple. 

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The meal itself was absolutely delicious. Starting with fresh, home-baked bread and a platter consisting melted Brie, stuffed mushrooms, shrimp, short ribs with a delicious sauce, and little meat-filled puffs.

 

 The entire evening was very leisurely and we enjoyed conversation with the proprietor and also the other couple; experiences  whilst on Madeira, living on the island, the U.S. political situation, the pending Dutch elections, and much more.


The deboned roasted chicken stuffed with pork, chestnuts and raisins was absolutely delicious.


 … and dessert! Oo-la-la! Passion fruit mousse, which resembled key lime cheesecake, topped with fresh passion fruit!


 We definitely saved the best for last! Salad for the next few days!!

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Funchal, Madeira

A relaxing day wandering around Funchal on a beautifully warm and sunny day.

So many interesting doors on Rua Santa Maria

We saw these interesting wicker carts that were pushed down the hill from Monte by guys dressed like Venetian gondoliers! We didn’t take part, not because we were chicken, but the price was heftier than we wanted to pay!

Lunch at Taberna Madeira…

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Over the top or through the center – Madeira

Up and up, round and round and over the top of the mountains and back down the other side – we love these roads that twist and turn and offer a slice of a village, a jaw-dropping precipice, or a glimpse of ocean.

Or there is the faster way – roads that are a series of tunnels that have been burrowed through the mountains or the cliffs along the coastlines. The tunnels vary in length up to the longest one we went through at 3.1 km, and  on the newer roads they are lined and illuminated, whereas the tunnels on the secondary roads are older, hand-hewn and dark! I read somewhere that there are more tunnels on this small island than in Switzerland!

A visit to the rum factory in Porto da Cruz. I love the poncha (punch) made of orange juice, rum, honey and passion fruit!

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After visiting the Whale Museum, we stopped for another delicious seafood lunch at Muralas Bar in Canical – a simple and busy little restaurant with many local families enjoying a leisurely lunch. (Local mussels with garlic, parsley and butter, grilled shrimp, and scabbard fish and chips).

We set off to hike to Ponta de Sao Lourenco, but with unsuitable shoes and full tummies, we decided to only go part way and back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Honey and cheese

I bought this honey directly from the bee-keeper at the market in Ponta Delgada (Azores). It is the most flavorful honey I have ever had – this particular one is clover – or so he told me! We are enjoying it on the delicious Portuguese bread with salted butter or sharp cheese – as we learned at Taberna Acor….


Yesterday we enjoyed limpets in garlic butter at Restaurante Caravela in Sao Vicente (Madeira). Local flavours abound

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Up and down and round and round

Today took us to the north shore up and down and round and round. These roads are not for those who don’t like driving, but we both love it! Once again over mountain ridges, through cattle zones, tidy villages, and views that never end.

We saw the most amazing surf along the northern shore. It was absolutely mesmerizing.

Other than the surf, another huge highlight was taking a cable car down the very steep cliffs to the beach – or just above it. The telerifico in Achades de Cruz is definitely worthwhile but not for the faint-hearted or those who suffer with vertigo!

Eats today included a roadside picnic and dinner at Chico’s in Pezares.

Evening calm

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Terraces, high cliffs and mountains – Madeira

To live on Madeira is to live a vertical life-style. The mountains meet the sea at a dramatic depth. An express way cuts through the mountains with tunnels or secondary roads twist and turn their way to the top. Everything is terraced, from gardens to fields, and nobody has a bad view!

Most of the houses are painted in a cream or pale yellow and all have red tiled roofs.

The roads are bordered with agapanthus and gorse (in higher elevations) and as we climbed our way into the clouds we could smell the eucalyptus from the forest.

Our drive today took us on the (yellow) secondary road from Estreito da Calheta to Achadas Da Cruz and back to Calheta via ER110 and down on ER209.

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Home away from home for a week – Madeira

We love our home for the week – villa Pinheira in Estreito da Calheta, Madeira. On the southern coast of the island overlooking the ocean with grape vines out of one window and banana plantations another — bliss! Looking forward to exploring the island…