Ponta Delgada and the western corner of Sao Miguel

The weather forecast called for showers today, but they moved through overnight and we had another beautiful day in which to explore more of this gorgeous island.

We started in Ponta Delgado with a walk to the fort and military museum. The fort dates from the 16th century and is in use today by the Portuguese military. From there a walk to visit the small but beautiful Jardim Antonio Borges (gardens) with many fine tree specimens, grottos and flowering shrubs.

Ponta Delgado is a very walkable and easy town to navigate. The narrow roads are cobbled using the volcanic rock and the pavements all have a mosaic design.

Lunch was at Acores Grill where one chooses from various selections of meat and you grill yourself at the table.

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We drove westwards to Sete Cicades and the beautiful crater lakes Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde. Legend is that a princess with green eyes fell in love with a shepherd with blue eyes. The union was not permitted by the King causing the princess and shepherd to cry and cry with their tears forming two lakes, one green and one  blue.

Taking dirt roads we ended up in Mosteiros to see the sunset which eluded us in the last few minutes. Nevertheless it was lovely sitting on the black rocks listening to and watching the surf crash onto the rocks and black sand beach.

Roads less travelled – the eastern coast, São Miguel

We were treated to a parade outside the hotel as we were leaving this morning – part of carnival season preceding Lent.

What an extraordinary place this is! The entire island is like a manicured park and workers are out in force trimming the banks, pruning trees and sprucing up the rest areas – which are like mini-parks. I kid you not! all the azaleas along the side of the road have been pruned and shaped!

More spectacular scenery with steep cliffs dropping to the ocean.

Tidy villages dot the landscape with their white and black (volcanic stone) churches.

Like a couple of crazies we took heed of the warning and walked down to the lighthouse (Farol Ponta del Arnel). The walk down was hard enough, but the hike back up had our hearts racing!

We earned the beer!

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I love these local pineapples! Terrific market here in Punta Delgada!

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Northern coastline and Furnas, São Miguel

We enjoyed the stunning coastline on our short drive from Capelas to Porto Formoso with lots of little side-trips along dirt roads.

We visited Cha Gorreana, the oldest and only remaining tea plantation on São Miguel. The Azores is the only place in Europe where tea is grown, this dating back to the 19th century. This plantation has been in operation since 1833 and still uses machinery from the industrial revolution – but it works! Because of the climate here and lack of insects, the tea plants are absolutely untreated other than pruning. They mature in their sixth year and continue to produce and live for 90 years! Harvest is from March until October. It is a tasty brew indeed!

We arrived in Furnas descending into the crater. A picturesque and very tidy little spa town – all the villages and towns we have passed through have been immaculate. We checked into our hotel Terra Nostra Gardens Hotel which adjoins the beautiful Terra Nostra botanical gardens. A marvelous collection of Camelias and a variety of Azalias were in bloom. We enjoyed the majestic trees, lush greenery and, especially, the palm tree-sized ferns.

And then a relaxing dip in the iron rich thermal pool….. ah!

Dinner at Restaurante Bar Caldeiras & Vulcões – cozido! more later … update! We couldn’t have the cozido because it required a 24-hour prior booking! Oh well! we enjoyed wonderful locally sourced food and wine! We would definitely return.

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First taste of São Miguel

Four and one-half hours after leaving Boston on a full and bumpy flight we descended in darkness and touched down on a small speck of land in the Atlantic 2,625 km from North America and 1,815 km from mainland Europe (Portugal). São Miguel Island, also referred to locally as “The Green Island”, is the largest and most populous island in the Portuguese archipelago (9) of the Azores.  Jet-lagged, from losing one night of sleep, we set off to explore the famed Lagoa do Fogo (Lagoon of Fire) one of the beautiful crater lakes.

We also visited Monumenta da Caldeira Velha, natural thermal pools set in the mountainside with waterfalls of warm water and one pool with water bubbling through the surface at 160 C. We weren’t prepared to take a dip ourselves, but will likely return – it looks like a great way to spend an hour or so.

The island is small enough that at a central high point, one can see the northern and southern coastlines (approximately 12 km across). It reminds of a cross between western Ireland, Hawaii, and New Zealand.  Every untouched surface is covered in green – either moss or ferns – and Camelias, hydrangeas, lilies, Azalias, agapanthus, and much, much more grow abundantly alongside the roads and lanes. Healthy looking cattle graze lazily in paddocks and fields with never a worry that their food supply will end. It is said that cattle outnumber humans on the island!

We ate dinner at Cafe Conto do Cais, a fabulous cafe in an old building, in Capelas.

After spending only 12 hours on this island, I have to say that never in my life have I met such genuinely welcoming and friendly people.

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Winter 2017 recap

Winter will be over by the time we return,  so had to post a few reminders of Winter 2017.

We enjoyed the serenity and beauty of Stevens Pond in early December.

Some very frigid days in December – unusually early for those temps.

The downtown area is always so festive looking with wreaths and lights strung across the streets.

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The Annual Polar Dip downtown at the boat launch was relatively balmy – especially for one who didn’t touch the water!! Always fun to watch my crazy friends!

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We get out for walks no matter what the conditions! After all, Lucy is a Mainer-girl!

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January was pretty uneventful with very little snow. And then … the day before Valentine’s Day Blizzard!

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12-hours in the Big Apple

A quick hop into the Big Apple for a well executed tour (by our friend, Sue) of some highlights – the American Indian museum, housed in the former Customs House, a walk along Wall Street, lunch at an Indian restaurant in lower east side, exhibits at the New York Public Library, Bryant Park and a virtual reality experience at a Facebook demo lounge, and the cream on top – the Broadway show “Jersey Boys”! What a day!

Lady Justice and the Manhattan skyline from Guttenberg, NJ.

Fancy subway cars!

Grand Central & Lower Manhattan

The magnificent public library (research)

On the streets…

Shop windows, Christmas lights and experiencing VR!

 

Jersey Boys and total number of steps walked!! = 9.5 miles!!!

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A little culture

We started the day with an 11 a.m. Christmas Chamber Music concert at the Staatstheater, but actually held in the elegant foyer.

The afternoon we were in the Rheingau and Eltville for a walk through town and along the Rhein.

And ended the day and vacation at Gutschaenke Langehof in Rauenthal.

 

Michelstadt with friends

Wolfgang and Elke took us on a day trip to Michelstadt, in the Odenwald. An old, walled town filled with fachwerk houses and a very lovely Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market).

Followed by meeting up with Bjorn and Erik for tapas at Bodega, a spanish restaurant in Wiesbaden. Lots of fun!

Around Wiesbaden and Out on the Town

More wandering the streets of Wiesbaden with our friend, Sue, who flew in for the weekend!

A ride up to Neroberg to see the Russian Chapel.

Relaxing few hours spent at the Thermal Bad

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An evening out on the town to see the shop windows, lights of the Weihnachtsmarkt, and a few songs at der Eimer!!

Castles and the Rhein

We drove through the Taunus mountains to Braubach on the Rhein and the site of the 13th century Marxburg Castle. We had visited this castle for a “formal” celebration with 4th Brigade’s partner brigade 10th Panzer Brigade back in 1980.  After taking a cruise on the Rhein we had dinner by candlelight in the castle. It was magical! The castle has since been further renovated and replastered since 1988 and is now in beautiful condition. The castle was never destroyed in battle, the only damage was caused by an earthquake and shelling from across the Rhein during WWII.

The interior and room where we enjoyed our supper.

The chapel.

Driving the Rhein River.

 

Trips down memory lane

Another glorious day with a clear blue sky, brilliant sunshine and sharp frost on the meadows for a drive into the Taunus mountains and to Idstein – a beautiful old market town where I once (in a former life) owned a lovely half-timber (fachwerk) house.

… and here is Kreuzgasse 42 with attached barn.

From there we traversed the country side with the goal of arriving in Fulda in time for lunch. Unfortunately, “MathildaII” (the car’s built-in gps system) had different routing for us! Anyway, we arrived in time for a beer at the craft brew Wiesenmuhle (restaurant closed) and onward for afternoon tea or coffee and delicious cake at a Konditorei very near the Fulda Dom. We sat at a table with a similarly aged lady who spoke impeccable english and enjoyed a lengthy conversation about politics!! Hmmm!

We managed a quick visit to St. Michael’s church, from 1194; spectacularly simple in design – quite beautiful.

Leaving Fulda, we were rewarded with the most dazzling sunset – rivaling those in Arizona! – which lasted for a good 45 minutes.

Dinner at traditional restaurant in Rambach, where Dennis had his long-awaited Zigeuner Schnitzel! and then home to some Lebkuchen!!!

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Along the Rhein

It was a perfect day for a walk from Schiersteiner Hafen alongside the Rhein. Of course,  we worked up an appetite for a glass of wine and lunch at the Gruener Baum in Schierstein.

Another stroll through Wiesbaden to Kochbrunnen Platz (where the warm, healing  spa waters spout continuously) and window shopping, enjoying the Christmas displays.