I dream of Africa … Swaziland

We crossed the border into Swaziland at Jeppe’s Reef and drove through the densely forested mountains to Piggs Peak. I don’t believe I have ever seen such tall and straight trees and we saw many logging trucks carrying the lumber that is used in the “post and beam” construction in these parts. The mountains and valleys are extremely scenic and we also enjoyed seeing the people as they went about their business at road side stalls, in small towns, and walking along the road. We saw lots of school children walking the road to or from school – many of them quite small – probably 7 or 8 years old. The local mode of transport – little white mini buses – zoom along and stop frequently to pick people up.

Just before Mbabane (the capital) we stopped at a glass making foundry where recycled bottles are used to make beautiful glassware. We saw a very innovative wine carafe with a dimple for holding ice to cool the wine, but decided against buying it due to difficulty taking it in our luggage. We also saw some beautiful locally woven silk, mohair, and cotton made into scarves, shawls, blankets, etc. and gorgeous colorful and finely woven baskets. Most of these products are created by local women and sold through cooperatives.

We skirted Mbabane and drove in the eZulwini valley making a stop at a Swazi cultural village. We had an excellent tour given by a young Swazi woman who explained life as it was in rural environments and how many of the cultural habits linger today. For example, it is legal to have more than one wife – in fact the King, whom we saw in a motor cavalcade on our way to this village! – has 16 wives and his father had 70 or so!!! A virgin wife costs 17 cows or the equivalent of 5,000 rand per cow!  We continued our drive until we reached  The Forester’s Arms where we are staying for one night. What a charming place! dating back to the 50’s it has all the old charm that one imagines. The staff were amazingly attentive and helpful and the women all wore traditional “mother-in-law dresses” (good dresses one would wear to visit or meet your mother-in-law!) The food was exceptional.

Kruger National Park

Kruger was much as expected and we only saw a tiny portion of it on our drive from Phabeni Gate to Malelane Gate. We did, however, see some very amusing impalas bounding around, some waterbok, kudu, a little turtle wandering down the road, as well as a family of giraffe taking a Sunday stroll. My leopard (in the tree) was elusive, and a good reason to return!! I promise – this is the last of the animal pictures!!!

Drive from Timbevati to Malelane (via Kruger)

We took the somewhat infamous R40 from Timbevati Reserve south to Hazyview. The reason for infamy being that we were warned of “fake” police who stop you for “violations” and demand cash on the spot! We saw no such people early on a Sunday morning – they were probably recovering from the Saturday night! It was interesting to pass through townships and see people dressed to the 9’s walking along the roadside to church and other activities. Funny little car wash stations all the way – we could have used one, but didn’t stop!

After a short Kruger drive we left via the Malelane Gate and arrived at our accommodation there – the Riverhouse Lodge – what a place! Very eclectic with massive collections of everything, but it all works wonderfully. They have a barn-like structure with comfortable furnishings that overlooks the river and we saw a small herd of elephants, hippos, and a croc!

 

I dream of Africa … our Gomo Gomo game drives

Our week of being at these two game lodges has come to an end! We’ve been on 14 game drives and have seen the BIG FIVE many times over! Quite amazing really. I feel as though we gave it enough time and weren’t on “Ferrari Safari” (as the locals call a quick drive through game parks)!

Because we saw pretty much the same animals as we saw over at Shindzela, I have put them all on one post.

There were two female lions, who were not nearly as energetic or well-fed looking as the Shindzela pride. Evidently these two are a break-off from a large pride that has moved away. Elephants, impala, baboons, buffalo, giraffes, zebras, hyenas,  etc. are plentiful everywhere; rhino and hippos not so much over here, but we saw them. We saw a brand new baby buffalo with its mother, but didn’t pursue it to photograph for fear of scaring it. We saw a bush baby last night, but it was moving too quickly and in the dark, so was impossible to photograph. I’ve especially enjoyed looking for different birds and we have now seen the fish, battalia, tawny and marshall eagles; several vultures; hundreds of hoop bills, an endangered Ground Hoopbill,  and many other varieties  whose names I’ve forgotten!! Oops! We saw two leopards, once again at night, and nigh on impossible to photograph as they moved away from us. It was my dream to see one hanging on a tree branch – maybe in Kruger tomorrow?

 

 

Gomo Gomo Bush Camp

From Shindzela we drove about 30 km to Gomo Gomo which is in the Klaserie Reserve. It is very similar to Shindzela in size and style (8 chalets), but the accommodations are nice thatched roof chalets built of brick with tile flooring, a verandah on the front overlooking the waterhole, and a large indoor bathroom with tub and shower. The lodge, also thatched, has a lounging space and eating area for lunch and breakfast. Dinner is eaten outside around an open fire.

The drives schedule is also pretty much the same, but the drives are quite different in that our guide (Jakobus) does not tend to go off trail and into the bush the way Sam did. Nonetheless, it is very enjoyable taking the drives and in between time sitting under a lovely big tree watching Maribou Storks, elephant, impala and more come to the water/mud hole.

I dream of Africa – good rhino sighting and more

We started out by seeing a herd of zebras with a couple of youngsters – their markings are so striking and beautiful.

… and then just down the trail we found this magnificent White Rhino! After our elephant charging experience, we were a little nervous, but Sam said there would be no problem since rhinos’ eye-sight is very poor – they go by sound and smell. He even made rhino noises and it came closer – about 3 meters away – but then turned once it realized we weren’t other rhinos!

A little mongoose was in the middle of the trail ..

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and then it was time for our sundowner and a most amazing sunset ever!

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I dream of Africa – chased by an elephant and more …

Our morning drive began with the discovery of a small herd of zebras, and as we were about to leave, up popped a beautiful, young, leggy, female giraffe! One of the animals I most wanted to see! She was not perturbed by us at all and crossed the trail and started chomping on some of the foliage. We watched her for quite a while and then a herd of elephants moved into the area.

We continued on our drive and came across a larger herd of elephants with some  youngsters. The matriarch wasn’t too happy at having us around and gave us several warning bellows and ear flappings! When we didn’t leave quickly enough for her, she decided to pursue the issue and charged us! as we reversed down the trail. It was a little unnerving to say the least, even though we have the utmost faith and respect for Sam’s knowledge. The herd was moving off to the side and we wanted to continue on our way, but another elephant decided to show us just what she would do with us and turned her back to us and kicked her legs and made stamping motions! it was terrific!

Elephant herds are quite interesting in that the herd is led by the oldest and largest female cow, and she is most likely closely related to the previous matriarch.  The rest of the herd is made up of the matriarch’s other daughters and their calves.

The matriarch will decide what to do in case of a crisis (like our invasion of their space!) Herds are usually made up of between 6 and 12 elephants. However, groups of between 12 and 20 elephants are also not uncommon. If the herd becomes too large, some of the daughters will break away with their young to form new groups on instruction from the matriarch. This may happen if the food – and water supplies are not sufficient to sustain the entire herd as they move through a specific area. They are on the move for 20 hours a day eating between 100-150 kg of food each, and the large elephants do not lay down to sleep, but doze while standing. When she dies, the matriarch is normally succeeded by her closest relative from the herd (usually the oldest daughter).
African elephants are elephants of the genus Loxodonta, from Greek λοξός + ὀδούς. The genus consists of two extant species: the African bush elephant and the smaller African forest elephant. Wikipedia
Scientific nameLoxodonta
LifespanAfrican bush elephant: 60 – 70 years, African forest elephant: 60 – 70 years

I dream of Africa – suckling cubs and more …

We started our afternoon drive with a good sighting of a kudu – such a handsome creature!

We tracked the lion pride to their riverbed where we found the three cubs nursing – another unusual and great sighting! It never ceases to amaze me how close we can get to them and how calm they are.

On our way back to camp – in the dark! – Sam spotted a tiny chameleon on a bush alongside the trail!!!

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I dream of Africa – Hyenas – waiting patiently and more ….

Our morning game drive started by tracking some hyenas and we found them not too far from the buffalo carcass, which was still being guarded by the lions (more on that). There were six or seven rather attractive and well-groomed hyenas, who didn’t seem to mind at all that we were clicking photos of them and a couple of them came up to within a couple of feet of the vehicle.

The lions had reduced the buffalo to a carcass of bones and skin – in just over 12 hours – and they were all cleaned up with no sign of the carnage from the evening before.

We saw quite a variety of birds, more elephants, warthog, buffalo, and a water bok.

 

I dream of Africa – the kill and more …

Sam was tracking lion prints going back and forth on the track – he didn’t tell us at the time, but he thought it meant they had a kill. Shortly thereafter we encountered one lion chewing on a baby buffalo; within 100 feet we found most of the remainder of the pride with a dead adult buffalo. It was a pretty gruesome sight, but evidently not one that is often seen, and we viewed the spectacle for about 30 minutes or more from our vehicle and within 15 feet of the lions.  Evidently they didn’t think we were a threat!!!  The cubs were in the thick of it and holding their own against the adults. They were a real mess – their faces pretty much blood and guts soaked! Their bellies were full (Sam said they eat 40 kg in a session) and they were exhausted and panting from the effort! He said that in all likelihood they took down the baby and the mother probably when to its aid, and they attacked and killed her also which was no easy feat. A short distance away was a small pond and we were able to observe them taking long draughts of water – once again at a very close distance.

Not long afterwards and as the light was turning a beautiful golden color, we found a herd of elephants frolicking and bathing in a pond.

 

I dream of Africa – a pride of lions and more…..

We started tracking a pride of lions shortly after we left camp and found about 10 adults and three cubs relaxing in a dry stream bed. We sat and watched them for a good thirty minutes – what a joy! the cubs were constantly at play either with an adult’s tail, chewing on a piece of twig, climbing a slanted tree trunk, wrestling with one another. The adults lounged around and occasionally checked on the little ones and put them straight! I shot so many wonderful photos and cannot believe that I said “I have too many lion pics!”

We then found a huge herd of African buffalo wading through a pond and cooling themselves. A huge bull elephant chomping on foliage; eagles and other birds, springboks, waterboks, and other antelope types.

 

 

I dream of Africa – first game drive (Shindzela)

Our first drive in the afternoon after we arrived was amazing! We saw several lions with their three cubs – playing like any kittens! TWO leopards! one a male was hiding under a bush and I have no idea how Jeffrey spotted him, and then a female (also under a bush). By this time it was dark, but Jeffrey turned on a powerful torch for us to observe her. We saw African buffalo, an elephant, hippos, lots of birds and various antelope type animals.

The gash on the female leopard was caused during mating.

Beautiful evening bush scenery…

 

 

 

 

Shindzela Bush Camp

Shindzela is the epitome of my African dreams! A small camp in a private reserve, the accommodations are tented cabins with flush and shower in a covered verandah at the rear of the tent and small verandah with chairs in the front. There are eight such tented cabins and a central open thatched roof pavilion where one can plug in and charge electronic devices, lounge, eat breakfast, etc.


We have two game drives a day (each for three hours) at 6 a.m. and 4 p.m. Nine people fit in the rugged 4-wheel drive open vehicle along with our driver (Sam) and spotter/tracker (Jeffrey) who sits above the front bumper. These are not merely game drives – we are actually tracking the animals and drive wherever need be through the bush. One of the joys of the private reserve is that it’s not required to stay on the roads, but they can go where they want. There are only two vehicles and we rarely see one another except if there is some exceptional game to be observed and we are in radio contact.

The drive to Shindzela took us through the gate to Timbevati Private Nature Reserve and then about 18km on dirt tracks until we reached camp. The Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, adjoining the greater Kruger National Park, comprises of 53,392 hectares of private game reserve land. Since 1962, the reserve has been dedicated to conservation by maintaining the biodiversity of species. Currently, there are over 40 mammal species in the Timbavati private game reserve, including the Big Five which are, Lion, Leopard, Rhino, Buffalo and Elephant as well as 360 species of bird life. The Timbavati Reserve is located in the Limpopo province of South Africa.

Our schedule is: wake up at 5 – a cup of coffee and rusk then on the way at 6 a.m. As the sun is rising and it is still quite chilly. We take a 15 minute picnic break for a cup of coffee or tea and a muffin!

Return from drive by 9.30 for a delicious breakfast served in the pavilion.

Lounge around the pool or relax elsewhere until lunch at 2.30 p.m.

Set off for evening drive at 4 (with sundowner break during the drive) and return at 7 for another delicious meal. Dinner is served at 7.30 around an open pit fire (braaie) and illuminated by oil burning lamps and torches.

We have freedom of movement within the camp during the day, but at night are escorted to and from our tents – escort has rifle in hand!!!