More of Mandalay

The city comes alive early – there is a mosque nearby, so we hear the call of the Mullah, dogs barking, horns peeping and by the time I look out of the window, there are people crouching behind a variety of vegetables all along the street. At some point during the day they disappear and are replaced by street food sellers ready for the night market.

We started out the day with a visit to Kyauktawghi Pagoda, known as the pagoda of the Great Marble Image. The huge Buddha is carved from a single block of marble. It is said to have taken 13 days for 10,000 men to move it from the river into place (a short distance away). The interior is decorated with beautiful mirror mosaics.

Kuthodaw Pagoda, known as “The World’s Biggest Book” for its collection of 729 marble slabs inscribed with Buddhist teachings.

How could you resist buying a bunch of (offering) lotus from this precious little thing? Also the beautiful young couple posing for their pre-wedding photos.

 

 

 

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Next stop the Shwendandaw Monastery, the Golden Monastery, that once stood in the grounds of the Royal Palace of the 19th century. The structure carved from teak is impressive and the interior has 80 or so tall teak columns and beautifully carved ceilings covered in gold leaf.

Our final stop was a visit to the Royal Palace grounds, now used by the military. Replicas of the former palace buildings have been constructed and give insight into the history and a good idea of the life of royalty back in the 1800’s here in Myanmar.

Thanaka:  Is the name of the wood that is used for the facial paste seen all the time. It is considered both a form of make-up and also for sun protection, as well as considered to be good for the skin. The paste is made by rubbing the bark of the thanaka log on a wet stone. Sometimes it is just smeared on the cheeks and neck, other times a design is created. I had mine done outside the pagoda by one of the lotus flower selling ladies – in the design of a lotus leaf.

Mandalay

by Rudyard Kipling

By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea,
There’s a Burma girl a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me;
For the wind is in the palm-trees, and the temple-bells they say:
“Come you back, you British soldier; come you back to Mandalay!”
Come you back to Mandalay,
Where the old Flotilla lay:
Can’t you ‘ear their paddles chunkin’ from Rangoon to Mandalay?
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

‘Er petticoat was yaller an’ ‘er little cap was green,
An’ ‘er name was Supi-yaw-lat — jes’ the same as Thebaw’s Queen,
An’ I seed her first a-smokin’ of a whackin’ white cheroot,
An’ a-wastin’ Christian kisses on an ‘eathen idol’s foot:
Bloomin’ idol made o’ mud —
Wot they call the Great Gawd Budd —
Plucky lot she cared for idols when I kissed ‘er where she stud!
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

When the mist was on the rice-fields an’ the sun was droppin’ slow,
She’d git ‘er little banjo an’ she’d sing “Kulla-lo-lo!
With ‘er arm upon my shoulder an’ ‘er cheek agin my cheek
We useter watch the steamers an’ the hathis pilin’ teak.
Elephints a-pilin’ teak
In the sludgy, squdgy creek,
Where the silense ‘ung that ‘eavy you was ‘arf afraid to speak!
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

But that’s all shove be’ind me — long ago an’ fur away,
An’ there ain’t no ‘buses runnin’ from the Bank to Mandalay;
An’ I’m learnin’ ‘ere in London what the ten-year soldier tells:
“If you’ve ‘eard the East a-callin’, you won’t never ‘eed naught else.”
No! you won’t ‘eed nothin’ else
But them spicy garlic smells,
An’ the sunshine an’ the palm-trees an’ the tinkly temple-bells;
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

I am sick o’ wastin’ leather on these gritty pavin’-stones,
An’ the blasted English drizzle wakes the fever in my bones;
Tho’ I walks with fifty ‘ousemaids outer Chelsea to the Strand,
An’ they talks a lot o’ lovin’, but wot do they understand?
Beefy face an’ grubby ‘and —
Law! wot do they understand?
I’ve a neater, sweeter maiden in a cleaner, greener land!
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

Ship me somewheres east of Suez, where the best is like the worst,
Where there aren’t no Ten Commandments an’ a man can raise a thirst;
For the temple-bells are callin’, an’ it’s there that I would be —
By the old Moulmein Pagoda, looking lazy at the sea;
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the old Flotilla lay,
With our sick beneath the awnings when we went to Mandalay!
O the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!

Mandalay

We started the day with a visit to the Mahamuni Pagoda, a Buddhist Temple and pilgrimage site. The Mahamuni Buddha image(literal meaning: The Great Sage) is a massive gold figure that has grown in size due to the constant adding and  layering of gold-leaf (by men only).

Off we go to explore the former capitals of Amarapura and Saiging, which are on the other side of the Irrawaddy River. Saiging is quite a sight with 600 pagodas and monasteries dotting the hillside, and because of this it is considered to be the spiritual hub of Myanmar and claims residence to around 3,000 monks. We visited several pagodas of importance – all of them quite beautiful in their own way. Everywhere we went was crowded with local people, as it was a religious holiday, and the activity added a nice liveliness to the places.

I had a personal and strangely poignant experience at one of the pagodas. Upon entering, I noticed a father and his young son who happened to be albino. I also noticed the stares of the local people. I was standing at the parapet overlooking the beautiful view of the Irrawaddy and the other pagodas when the man and his son came up to me. Our guide, Thet, was right there to translate. The man came to me, because he saw my blonde hair, and wanted to know whether the bright sunshine bothered my eyes, as his son couldn’t tolerate the bright sunshine. Whether they should go to the doctor about it? He said the son could read OK, that he was not blind, but had to close his eyes against the bright sunshine. These people came from a remote village (they actually have two children, BOTH of them albino) and they didn’t seem aware of the condition at all. I explained to them that the children should wear hats and sun protection in general and we said they should get UV sunglasses for them, that it was doubtful a doctor could do anything. I couldn’t get their situation out of my head – imagine – in a remote village, two dark haired and skinned parents and they give birth to a white haired and skinned baby. Even at that site, people were staring, in the village they must never have seen blond/white haired people. I think it’s why he came to me – I was probably the first blond person he’d seen and he thought that I would suffer with the same problems as the children. So sad!

We stopped at a local market to browse and learn about some of the herbs, vegetables, etc. and how they are used or prepared. I was particularly intrigued by a finger shield device that a woman was using to thinly slice bamboo shoots. She let me try it and even gave me a new one that she had!!

 

We visited “pottery village” and a family run pottery that make the clay pots used all over the country for water storage – Thet claims it keeps the water cool.

In Amarapura (which means “City of Immortality” we visited the Mahagandayon monastery, home to more than 1,000 young monks and known as a centre for monastic study and strict religious discipline.

Mid-afternoon (and it was a very hot one – probably close to 100!) we drove down to the legendary U Bein Bridge (this is one of the sites I was dying to see) – building in 1782, it spans 1.2 km across the shallow Taungthaman Lake and is said to be the longest teakwood bridge in the world. We joined the throngs (more than usual, evidently, but because of the holiday) to walk part way across the bridge. After relaxing with a coconut full of delicious coconut water under the shade of some large trees, we waited until close to sunset to embark on our little boat ride out on the lake to view the bridge at sunset. We were not disappointed!!

Inle Lake – micro-factories and farms

Family run micr0-factories abound on Inle Lake: As part of the tourist tribe, we were fortunate to visit some and see the people at work while having the techniques demonstrated and explained.

Umbrella making: The paper is made from pulp of mulberry bark and decorated with flower petals. The red or brown umbrellas are for monks.

Cigar (cheroot) making:

Weaving – saw an amazing demonstration of extracting thread from the stem of lotus plants which is later woven into fabric – usually as a design with silk, as it is extremely expensive. Unlike most weaving where different colored thread is woven to create the design, at this particular workshop, the thread is tie-died first and then woven into the design.

Boat builders – hand planing and building both long boats and canoes from teak.

Blacksmiths and silversmiths.

Tomato crate maker and distribution center:

 

Floating farms that grow tomatoes, beans, squash and more. The tomatoes are exported all over the country.

 

Inle Lake – life at and around the pagoda

We were on the short boat ride from our hotel to the five-day market (in a different village every day for five days), when passing the pagoda we saw a boat decorated as though for a wedding or such. Our guide said it would be for an initiation ceremony (Shinbyu) of a young novice; we promptly pulled over and went to see what was happening. As Twe Twe explained, this ceremony is a very important rite of passage both for the young boy and the family. For parents, it is deemed the most important duty that they owe to their son by letting him go forth and embrace the legacy of the Buddha at least for a short while, perhaps longer, if not for the rest of his life. Therefore, those that don’t have sons of their own, will often seek an orphan or a boy from a very poor family in order to receive this special regard by the Buddha. Many believe that allowing a son to spend some time in a monastery, even only a week (although they can become novices on more than one occasion), is the best religious gift the parents can give.

Evidently the first Shinbyu occurred two and a half millennia ago, when the Buddha’s own son asked for his inheritance, and he was stripped of his princely garments and given the robe of an ascetic, head shaved and sent to the monastery.

We could walk from the pagoda to the market, which was vibrant as most markets are and with a wonderful array of vegetables, spices and everything else imaginable.

 

Inle Lake, Myanmar

It is such a great feeling to be greeted at the airport (Bagan Air flew us from Yangon to Heho) by a smiling face, and this one belonged to Twe Twe, our guide during our visit to the Inle Lake area. Having spent the day with her, she is super and her english superb and totally understandable (this can sometimes be a problem, even if their vocabulary is good!)

Some facts and figures about Inle Lake: A beautiful highland lake, 900 meters above sea level, but at its deepest only about 4 meters. The lake is 22km long and 10km across, and inhabited by many different ethnic nationals of the area. The Intha people are the lake dwellers who are unique for their leg rowing. The lake is located in Shan State, the largest state in the country with about 30% of the population comprising 33 different tribes with 33 different languages and is considered part of the Golden Triangle.

On our ride from Heho, we visited the Shwe Yan Pyae Monestery which houses 700 or so Shan Buddha images. Beautiful intricate glass decoration and gold leaf were a part of its former glory. The school part of the monestery, built of teak now weathered, still houses young monks.

In Nyuangshwe we dropped off our bags at the jetty and hopped on bicycles to ride a couple of miles along country lanes to the Red Mountain Winery. A winery was about the last thing I imagined we’d visit in Myanmar! but thanks to a local Shan resident who, as Twe Twe put it “hit the jackpot” in gem mining, here we are! He imported vines from France about 8 years ago and is now producing some very nice wine. We had a delicious lunch and tasted wine in the hilltop setting overlooking vineyards and Inle Lake.

After cycling back to the jetty, we boarded our long boat for the exhilarating ride to our lake hotel. We saw many of the local Intha leg-rowing fishermen. What an extraordinary thing! but they all do it effortlessly. I know where one person would land if attempting it! We arrived at our hotel, the Shwe Yee Pwint, after about an hour. Wow! our own little chalet on stilts over the water. I have always been addicted to the thrill of the journey, and the series of long haul flights to get here were so part of it all! Now we can enjoy a few days of relaxation on this beautiful lake.

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Yangon, Myanmar

Anyway, back to our visit to Yangon: Our main destination was to be the Shwedagon (shwe=gold) Pagoda at sunset, but we were beaten to it by the King of Norway and his security entourage, so that is on tap for when we return to Yangon. Instead we went to see the magnificent 70 meter long reclining Buddha with the most spectacular glass eyes.

Chauk Htat Gyi Reclining Buddha Image – Yangon, Myanmar.

 

Chinatown night market and Indiatown.

Sule Pagoda in the center of town and about 100 meters from our hotel.

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Sule Pagoda – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

 

 

+15 hours

Thank you, Lord, for all the blessings of this life. The obvious go without saying, but the opportunity to widen horizons and fly business class are well worth being extra thankful for! Our detour to Chicago, and our flight on Cathay Pacific (CX807) was well worth it. We are here, in Hong Kong, on time and having experienced superb service on the way.

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me and my baggage!

On board CX 807

 

SE Asia bound

We are embarking on our long anticipated adventure (planned for 10 months) to Southeast Asia – namely, Myanmar, or as I prefer, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, and northern Thailand. The trip is made even more exciting because we were able to finagle business class flights through the use of miles and purchasing miles. Sweeeeet! Leg one from Boston to Dallas went without a hitch and very comfortably, thank you very much. Next leg starts tomorrow at 11.30 and will be a 17 hour flight to Hong Kong; change planes and onward to Bangkok. More on that later ….

Visiting September 11 Memorial Museum

A grey and rainy day, but a good day to visit the September 11 Memorial Museum. We drove to Jersey City, leaving the car there and took a quick 5-minute ferry ride across to Manhattan and a stone’s throw from the 9/11 site.

The memorial is located at the World Trade Center site, on the former location of the Twin Towers, which were destroyed during the attacks. It is genius that the two pools are where to towers once stood.  The museum, which goes underground and has some of the original structures from the towers,  is extremely well thought out and the information and artifacts beautifully presented. I thought I would be much more affected by the reminders, but think the whole thing is so strongly etched in my memory from watching events as they happened on TV, that most of the pictures and images were familiar to me. Nevertheless, a sad and poignant place, but a lovely memorial for all those whose lives were taken on that fateful day.

Early Autumn in Nova Scotia

A road trip to Nova Scotia was made even more enjoyable by a stop in Shediac and spending the evening with Odette and Jerry, whom we met on our Panama Canal/South America cruise in 2008.

A stop for lunch at Le Caveau restaurant in Grand Pre.

Our destination –  Bridgetown, NS – with good friends, Jean and John plus the added bonus of Irene and Arvid joining us from Toronto. We’re having a good catch-up and some good laughs along with celebration of Jean’s birthday on 28th.

Sightseeing on the Fundy Shore with quick visit to J&J’s cabin.

 

 

A drive to Luckett’s winery for lunch (near Wolfville).

To  Annapolis Royal for the Saturday market, then off to shop for lobster. The one Jean is holding is the largest I’ve ever seen – a 14lber!

Back to the cabin to cook and eat the lobster! the most perfect evening possible.

Maine’s Common Ground Fair

Unlike some of my friends, I only go to the Common Ground Fair every three years or so .. not because I don’t like it, but because I have become shy  of crowds, queues, traffic, etc. – especially in Maine. Anyway, it was good to spend some time there today, despite the cooler than forecast temps. My favorite demo is with the sheep dogs, and the apple tasting wasn’t half bad either!