Bogyoke Market, Yangon

We were at the market early, just as it was waking up and coming to life. Reminded me much of the markets in Saudi Arabia – fabrics, tailors, notions, glitz, jewelry. Flip flops anyone?

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Bagan the beautiful

Our guide, Min, took us to “no name” monastery – a relic that was once a monastery, but now offers a superb panoramic view of Old Bagan and the 4,000 temples, pagodas, libraries, and monasteries. Many of these structures are from 9c-12c (older than Angkor Wat), but, unfortunately, many were damaged in a 7.0 earthquake in 1975. The amount of restoration work that has been completed is quite amazing, and thankfully so, as these ancient monuments would soon disintegrate completely.

Adjacent to “no name” is a brick factory where each brick is made by hand to the tune of approximately 1,000 a day! With all the brick structures in Bagan and the restoration work that is ongoing, it would appear they have good job security!

We stopped for a quick “cuppa” at a local tea house tasting both the thick, sweet, dark tea and a green tea.

We then went to visit a bean paste factory where, once again, everything is on a small scale and done without machinery. The soybeans are cooked and strained off (and then sold to farmers for pig food – the women waiting), the water is cooked down over many hours to a thick, dark paste; this is then packaged as small pellets or pulverized and sold as powder. This factory is now owned by a woman, with whom we spoke, and her brother, having been handed down from their grandfather who started the production 80 years ago.

Onward to the local market – I have become quite the expert at all the local produce and food items! The markets never fail to entertain me.

 

The magnificence of Shwe-Zigon pagoda is indescribable. Also this pagoda was damaged in the earthquake and the entire upper dome needed to be replaced. One single monk raised all the money necessary by collecting donations from local people.

A few more stops at some temples and then for lunch at The Moon – Be Kind to Animals restaurant. Delicious guacamole (they have the most beautiful avocados which are currently ripe), tamarind-leaf curry and pineapple curry with coconut rice. Yum!

My new addiction – tamarind paste candy – discovered yesterday!

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Mandalay

We started the day with a visit to the Mahamuni Pagoda, a Buddhist Temple and pilgrimage site. The Mahamuni Buddha image(literal meaning: The Great Sage) is a massive gold figure that has grown in size due to the constant adding and  layering of gold-leaf (by men only).

Off we go to explore the former capitals of Amarapura and Saiging, which are on the other side of the Irrawaddy River. Saiging is quite a sight with 600 pagodas and monasteries dotting the hillside, and because of this it is considered to be the spiritual hub of Myanmar and claims residence to around 3,000 monks. We visited several pagodas of importance – all of them quite beautiful in their own way. Everywhere we went was crowded with local people, as it was a religious holiday, and the activity added a nice liveliness to the places.

I had a personal and strangely poignant experience at one of the pagodas. Upon entering, I noticed a father and his young son who happened to be albino. I also noticed the stares of the local people. I was standing at the parapet overlooking the beautiful view of the Irrawaddy and the other pagodas when the man and his son came up to me. Our guide, Thet, was right there to translate. The man came to me, because he saw my blonde hair, and wanted to know whether the bright sunshine bothered my eyes, as his son couldn’t tolerate the bright sunshine. Whether they should go to the doctor about it? He said the son could read OK, that he was not blind, but had to close his eyes against the bright sunshine. These people came from a remote village (they actually have two children, BOTH of them albino) and they didn’t seem aware of the condition at all. I explained to them that the children should wear hats and sun protection in general and we said they should get UV sunglasses for them, that it was doubtful a doctor could do anything. I couldn’t get their situation out of my head – imagine – in a remote village, two dark haired and skinned parents and they give birth to a white haired and skinned baby. Even at that site, people were staring, in the village they must never have seen blond/white haired people. I think it’s why he came to me – I was probably the first blond person he’d seen and he thought that I would suffer with the same problems as the children. So sad!

We stopped at a local market to browse and learn about some of the herbs, vegetables, etc. and how they are used or prepared. I was particularly intrigued by a finger shield device that a woman was using to thinly slice bamboo shoots. She let me try it and even gave me a new one that she had!!

 

We visited “pottery village” and a family run pottery that make the clay pots used all over the country for water storage – Thet claims it keeps the water cool.

In Amarapura (which means “City of Immortality” we visited the Mahagandayon monastery, home to more than 1,000 young monks and known as a centre for monastic study and strict religious discipline.

Mid-afternoon (and it was a very hot one – probably close to 100!) we drove down to the legendary U Bein Bridge (this is one of the sites I was dying to see) – building in 1782, it spans 1.2 km across the shallow Taungthaman Lake and is said to be the longest teakwood bridge in the world. We joined the throngs (more than usual, evidently, but because of the holiday) to walk part way across the bridge. After relaxing with a coconut full of delicious coconut water under the shade of some large trees, we waited until close to sunset to embark on our little boat ride out on the lake to view the bridge at sunset. We were not disappointed!!

Inle Lake – life at and around the pagoda

We were on the short boat ride from our hotel to the five-day market (in a different village every day for five days), when passing the pagoda we saw a boat decorated as though for a wedding or such. Our guide said it would be for an initiation ceremony (Shinbyu) of a young novice; we promptly pulled over and went to see what was happening. As Twe Twe explained, this ceremony is a very important rite of passage both for the young boy and the family. For parents, it is deemed the most important duty that they owe to their son by letting him go forth and embrace the legacy of the Buddha at least for a short while, perhaps longer, if not for the rest of his life. Therefore, those that don’t have sons of their own, will often seek an orphan or a boy from a very poor family in order to receive this special regard by the Buddha. Many believe that allowing a son to spend some time in a monastery, even only a week (although they can become novices on more than one occasion), is the best religious gift the parents can give.

Evidently the first Shinbyu occurred two and a half millennia ago, when the Buddha’s own son asked for his inheritance, and he was stripped of his princely garments and given the robe of an ascetic, head shaved and sent to the monastery.

We could walk from the pagoda to the market, which was vibrant as most markets are and with a wonderful array of vegetables, spices and everything else imaginable.

 

Yangon, Myanmar

Anyway, back to our visit to Yangon: Our main destination was to be the Shwedagon (shwe=gold) Pagoda at sunset, but we were beaten to it by the King of Norway and his security entourage, so that is on tap for when we return to Yangon. Instead we went to see the magnificent 70 meter long reclining Buddha with the most spectacular glass eyes.

Chauk Htat Gyi Reclining Buddha Image – Yangon, Myanmar.

 

Chinatown night market and Indiatown.

Sule Pagoda in the center of town and about 100 meters from our hotel.

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Sule Pagoda – Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

 

 

Variety is the spice of life

The farmer’s market at Santa Fe’s Railyard district was fun – especially seeing the different types of beans and chili powders. Finished off the New Mexico History Museum at Governor’s Palace.

Sunday took us to Albuquerque to the Indian Cultural Center to see some native dances and view other exhibits, plus have a delicious lunch at their cafe and bakery.

Monday we took to the hiking trails in the mountains north of Santa Fe searching for some geocaches – success 3/3!!!

Day 2 – Arequipa

After a good dinner and night’s sleep we were running on fully charged batteries for our tour today, which took us to  San Carmelo market, the cathedral and Plaza des Armes, and the gorgeous Santa Catalina monestary.

Lovely Lexington

I love this part of the country with its tidy fields and pastures surrounded by fences or stacked stone walls; tree lined “pikes”; friendly people, and did I mention the incredible Kentucky Ale aged in fresh bourbon casks to give the ale a delicious flavour.

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Saturday at the downtown farmers’ market where fresh herbs and more were in supply.

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