Today we went on a tour of a favela tucked into the hillside in Rio. I wasn’t sure how I felt about being somewhat of a voyeur and visiting what I knew to be an area where the poorer population reside. However, when Matthew, our guide, started the tour by telling us that he grew up and still lives in the favela, and gave us guidelines as to what we would be doing, I felt much better. As it turned out, I believe having a tour guide, like Matthew, giving insight into the real life of the people and explaining how the system works within the favela – it helps to elevate their status.
Rocinha is said to be the largest favela in Latin America with a population of approximately 180,000. It is tucked in a notch between two mountains (the brothers) and cascades downward toward two of the richest neighborhoods in Rio; Leblon and Ipanema. Rocinha was first inhabited in the 1930s by farmers who sold their produce in town. When asked where the produce came from, they would say from my “little farm” = Rocinha! In the 1970s, the community grew with people migrating to Rio for work .
We started at the top where we had a magnificent view of the entire community with LeBlon and Ipanema beyond.
Matthew told us that the majority of the inhabitants rent. The homes are structured floor by floor. For example, Somebody purchases and builds the first level and then sells the space above for another dwelling level to be built, and so it goes until most of the buildings are at least four floors tall?
The favela utility system is very precarious. Water is provided by the city, but is very unreliable, therefore many of the buildings have some type of tank or container to store water for the times when running water is not available. The power is run into the favela but people just splice into the service illegally which also causes issues during hot weather when air conditioners are being run, etc. There are a number of competing Internet providers in the community, which add to the jumble of wires.
There are main roads that run through the favela with bus transportation, and even a metro station, but there is also a maze of alleys and steps traversing the hillside and connecting the neighborhoods within the favela. The main method of transportation is motorcycle, which also includes motorcycle taxis.
Rocinha is considered one of the best favelas in Rio due to its proximity to jobs and services. (About 20% of Brazil’s population live in favelas (20 million). Cities like Rio de Janeiro would probably crumble without the residents of favelas, like Rocinha, providing the necessary services. They are the public sector workers.Rio de Janeiro has 1,413 favelas, They are home to around 1.5 million people, or about 24% of the city’s population.
From what I could gather, the favela seems to be an alternative law society. One of the most notorious drug gangs (Red Command) runs Rocinha (and many other favelas) establishing themselves as parallel powers, while the police turn a blind eye. Matthew told us that it is entirely safe and crime is low in Rocinha, but if a crime is committed it is dealt with by the Red Command. Drugs are sold openly, mainly to customers from outside the favela. We saw a table set up with drugs in an area where Matthew asked us not to take photos. He told us that the people feel safe and have a strong sense of community and it appears that they, the Red Command, rule with respect – it is difficult for me to imagine how!, There are several NGO’s within the favela working in the school and medical fields, providing extra curricular studies and activities for children, and providing vaccinations and other medical care.
Some favelas are becoming gentrified because of their magnificent views and proximity to the city and beaches making it unaffordable for some of the inhabitants. Matthew said that he could move out and live elsewhere (suburbs) for the same or a little more money, but he prefers to stay because of the location and the community.
In the 1930’s car races (nowadays Formula 1) were held in Rio and ran through this perilous “s” curve and the streets of Rocinha
We walked from the very top of the favela to the bottom!
Fascinating, Chris. Thanks for taking the chance on this tour. We all learned a lot that we could otherwise never have known about. Your pictures are great.
Great pics! I so want to go back; am looking forward to hearing more when you return.