Category Archives: Cooking

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North Carolina wrap-up

We took the 30-minute ferry ride from Fort Fisher to Southport and spent several enjoyable hours strolling the lovely residential streets and downtown. Beautiful old homes, wide streets, sidewalks, live-oak trees all create a very southern setting. The downtown on Cape Fear River with brick buildings and nice little shops makes for a pleasing meander. We enjoyed lunch al fresco at Fishy Fishy Cafe where Lucy could also take part.

A long, long walk on the beach at Freeman Park.

Dinner @ home – grilled red snapper.

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Chiang Mai choices

Riding a red cab…. these can either be hired individually as a cheaper, non-a/c option, or can be caught randomly from the roadside if they are going the route you need.

…..to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – a ride up and up (on twisty turn roads) out of the city for a good 30 minutes.

Walking the Old City

Markets

Spending a day at Thai Farm Cooking School where we learned many new (to us) techniques and prepared and cooked five courses which we also consumed! It meant no dinner last night!!

Dash Restaurant – a terrific place to eat. The open post and beam house built entirely of teak.

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Christmas services at All Saints Anglican Church – it just wouldn’t have been Christmas without celebrating in church!

Eating khao soi – the specialty of this region of Thailand.

Real-Deal Khao Soi Gai (Northern Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup With Chicken)

About This Recipe

YIELD: Serves 4
ACTIVE TIME: 45 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 2 hours
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: wok, large granite mortar and pestle
THIS RECIPE APPEARS IN: Four Essential Northern Thai Dishes to Make Right NowRecipes From Chiang Mai: How to Make Real Deal Khao Soi Gai (Coconut Curry Noodle Soup With Chicken)

Ingredients

  • 1 whole dried Thai bird chili (or 1 whole chile de arbol), more or less to taste
  • 2 whole small shallots, peeled and split into quarters
  • 4 whole cloves garlic
  • 1 stalk lemongrass, bottom 4 inches only, roughly chopped
  • 1 teaspoon makrut lime zest, or 2 whole makrut lime leaves (see note above)
  • 1 (1-inch) knob fresh turmeric, roughly chopped
  • 2 thin slices ginger
  • 1 small bunch cilantro stalks, cut from the very base of the stalks, leaves and thin stems reserved for another use
  • 1 teaspoon whole coriander seed
  • 6 pods Thai black cardamom or 1 pod green cardamom, inner seeds only
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons Thai shrimp paste
  • 1 cup vegetable or canola oil
  • 1 pound fresh Chinese-style egg noodles, divided
  • 2 (15-ounce) cans coconut milk, or 2 cups fresh coconut milk (do not shake)
  • 1 cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
  • 2 tablespoons palm sugar (see note above)
  • 4 chicken legs, split into drumsticks and thighs
  • Fish sauce to taste
  • Sliced shallots, lime wedges, and pickled Chinese mustard root (see note above) for serving

Procedures

  1. Place chili, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, lime zest, turmeric, ginger, cilantro stalks, coriander seed, and cardamom in the center of a 12- by 12-inch square of heavy duty aluminum foil. Gather edges up to make a tight pouch. Place pouch directly over the flame of a gas burner and cook, turning occasionally, until aromatic and wisps of smoke begin to rise, about 8 minutes. If no gas burner is available, place the pouch in the bottom of a wok or cast iron skillet and heat over high heat, turning occasionally, until smoky, about 10 minutes. Allow contents to cool slightly and transfer to a large mortar and pestle.
  2. Add a large pinch of salt to the aromatics. Pound until a very fine paste is formed, about 10 minutes. Add shrimp paste and pound to incorporate. Set curry paste mixture aside.
  3. Separate out 1/4 of the noodles (enough noodles to make a crispy fried-noodle topping for 4 bowls) and set the remaining noodles aside. Heat vegetable oil in a large wok over high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, add noodles to oil and fry, stirring and flipping until golden brown and crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Season with salt and set aside.
  4. Discard all but 1 tablespoon oil from wok. Using a spoon, skim 2 tablespoons of creamy fat off the top of the coconut milk and add to the wok. Heat wok over high heat and cook, stirring constantly, until coconut milk breaks and oil begins to lightly smoke, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste mixture and cook, stirring and smearing the paste into the oil, until aromatic, about 45 seconds.
  5. Slowly whisk in the coconut milk, followed by the chicken stock and palm sugar. Add chicken legs and bring to a simmer. Cook, turning chicken occasionally, until chicken is tender and broth is very flavorful, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with fish sauce.
  6. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add remaining uncooked noodles and cook until al dente, about 1 minute. Drain noodles and divide between four warmed bowls. Top noodles with two pieces of chicken. Divide broth evenly between bowls. Top with fried noodles and serve immediately with sliced shallots, lime wedges, and pickled mustard greens on the side.
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Lao fondue

We spent the day wandering the streets of Luang Prabang. What a delightful little town this is, and so manageable on foot. Exactly what we were hoping for after our fast paced tour of Myanmar and Siem Reap.

Our hotel, My Dream, is a grouping of lovely timber built structures on the “other” (south) side of the Nam Khan River ( a tributary of the Mekong which flows on the northern side of Luang Prabang). We can take a rickety bamboo footbridge to the main part of town.

Nearby the footbridge we discovered a little restaurant (Dyen Sabei) where we went for dinner this evening and had Lao Fondue. They bring out a bucket full of red hot coals and then place a round rimmed griddle type thing over the coals. A kettle of broth, a bowl of raw vegetables, a lump of fat, dishes with tamarind paste, hot chilies, raw garlic, an egg, noodles and meat of choice – we had buffalo. It was delicious!!!!

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Early Autumn in Nova Scotia

A road trip to Nova Scotia was made even more enjoyable by a stop in Shediac and spending the evening with Odette and Jerry, whom we met on our Panama Canal/South America cruise in 2008.

A stop for lunch at Le Caveau restaurant in Grand Pre.

Our destination –  Bridgetown, NS – with good friends, Jean and John plus the added bonus of Irene and Arvid joining us from Toronto. We’re having a good catch-up and some good laughs along with celebration of Jean’s birthday on 28th.

Sightseeing on the Fundy Shore with quick visit to J&J’s cabin.

 

 

A drive to Luckett’s winery for lunch (near Wolfville).

To  Annapolis Royal for the Saturday market, then off to shop for lobster. The one Jean is holding is the largest I’ve ever seen – a 14lber!

Back to the cabin to cook and eat the lobster! the most perfect evening possible.

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Day 7 – Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo and Chinchera)

Our hotel (Casa Andina Private Collection) in Urubamba was a big surprise! Set in lush and beautiful gardens at the foot of a mountain constructed in chalet style with tile roof – beautiful!

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We set off in the morning, in our first drizzle, for the ruins of an Incan Emporer at Ollantaytambo. What a magnificent site! We were some of the first tourists there and gradually climbed the steep stone steps ,to the sun temple and with fantastic views over the entire site. The intricacy, precision and fine work of those Incan engineers is absolutely mind-boggling – and all without the use of machinery, metal blades, cranes, etc. Our mascot dog (named Trooper by Nicole) stayed with us the entire time.

From there we headed into the hills to Chinchero where our first stop was at a small village school. The children were adorable and ranged in ages from 2-8 (it also serves as a day care). They sang for us and kindly let us take their photos. The school is supported, in part, by Gate 1 Travel who give a percentage of our tour price.

Then on to a weaving cooperative where we were also served a delicious lunch followed by a demonstration of the washing, dyeing, spinning, and weaving process. The host ladies were extremely gracious and the setting was lovely. Oh! And did I mention that Guinea Pig can frequently be found on the menu?