Mitla, weaving, Mezcal and huge cypress tree

Benito Pablo Juárez García was the first indigenous president in post colonial Mexico. He was a Zapotec born in Oaxaca state to a poor rural family and orphaned as a child. Juárez was looked after by his uncle and eventually moved to Oaxaca city at the age of 12, working as a domestic servant. Aided by a lay Franciscan, he enrolled in a seminary and studied law. He became active in liberal politics and served as the 26th president of Mexico from 1858 until his death in office in 1872. He is still revered – especially here in Oaxaca.

We visited Mitla – officially San Pablo de Mitla – another clean and tidy little town designated Puebla Magica – like Atlixco. The program is a federal initiative to promote towns that offer special attractions – like the decorations or attractive parks.

Mitla is famous for being the site of the 1000 year old Zapotec archaeological ruins with its well preserved fretwork mosaics. It was formerly known as Lyoboa (translated “resting place”) and is generally believed that Mitla was established as a sacred burial ground by the Zapotecs. Between 900 and 1500AD the Mixtecs moved south from northern Oaxaca and took possession of Mitla.

 

Mitla is known for its weavers and the many weaving workshops. We visited one for a demonstration and to hear about the process.

 

Cochineal was the third most profitable export for Oaxacans after gold and silver. The insect attaches itself to the prickly pear plant and becomes a parasite. They are scraped from the plant, dried and used. If not removed, the plant would die. Adding lime juice to the natural cochineal creates an orange color, whereas adding an alkaline like baking soda, it turns purple.

 

 

We had a delicious lunch served and cooked by the ladies in the family.

 

Also produced in Mitla is Mezcal. It is called “the Mother of Tequila” and the saying is that all Tequila is Mezcal , but Mezcal is not Tequila. Both are made from Agave, but Tequila is only made from the Blue Agave.

The 300-500kg bulbs are chopped and placed in this huge pit on top of hard wood and volcanic rock coals that are covered with the fiber from the leaves. It is covered with a layer of dirt and then sealed with a canvas cover to retain the steam and cooked for several days. After which the pulp is removed and smashed with this horse drawn mill. Following that is is processed and distilled at least twice.

Onward to El Tule to see a 2000 year old Montezuma Cypress with a girth of 58 meters and diameter of 14 meters, making it the largest in the world.