LAX stay to readjust

We’re spending two nights at the lovely H Hilton hotel at LAX. Very comfortable, convenient and great views of the runway!

Yesterday evening enjoyed a walk under the flight path and a delicious dinner in a small Greek taverna (Aliki’s) with a glass of retsina – taverna decked out in traditional blue and white and great Greek music for added atmosphere.

Today a bus ride to Venice and a walk through the downtown and to the beach. Lots of street art to enjoy and lots of activity on the beach for a Tuesday morning.

We rounded off the day with well deserved 😫 fresh tamales and margarita at el Cholo’s on Wilshire in Santa Monica.

Kyoto-Arashiyama-Fushimi-inari

Our first stop was Nishiki market, just a short walk from our hotel. I have rarely seen so many food items that I don’t recognize!

…and some unusual characters…

Pounding sesame seeds

Using our JR pass we took the train to Arashiyama to see the bamboo forest which wasn’t quite as dramatic as I’d imagined, but it was pleasurable to walk through the towering bamboos on a hot day.

We didn’t make it to Fushimi-inari during the golden light, but it was lovely to see the shrine illuminated. The next day, I made the short train trip back to see it during daylight.

Fushimi shrine is an important  Shinto shrine just two train stops south of Kyoto. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates which straddle a network of trails leading into the forest of the sacred Mount Inari. The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice and sake. Foxes are thought to be Inari’s messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. Fushimi Inari Shrine has ancient origins, predating the capital’s move to Kyoto in 794.

These torii are mesmerizing. I would have liked to spend the day, but we are onward to Tokyo.

Kyoto tower by night.

Kanazawa

Arriving by train at Kanazawa, one is struck by the immense size and the beautiful structure of the railway station.

Eateries are plentiful and especially heavy on sweets and bakeries. We found this little fast-food place that served bowls, but only after being there a while did I notice that I was the only female in the fully packed place (other than the staff!) Maybe not fine enough for Japanese women. Reminded me of the days when pubs had public bars and lounges – I always felt more comfortable in the public bar!!!

Huge, well-spaced, bright shopping areas with lovely merchandise are right there within the station and enjoyed by well dressed pups!

The castle

Kenrouken gardens.

Another newly wed couple having photos taken.

Old Kanazawa

Omichi market.

Mostly a huge variety of seafood.

My new best friends – a group of Junior High kids wanted to practice their English! Not quite sure about this guy’s head gear – I think it has some significance??!

Early Morning Market in Takayama

This lovely market on the banks of the river had plenty of interesting offerings – many edible!

Deliciously juicy apples and the sealed red item is (I think) some kind of pickle. We’ve seen it often.

This sweet lady was making and selling marshmallows. Dennis tried one, but ate it before I could capture the moment!

Meanwhile, I tried this delicious custard.

Buckwheat noodles and rice cakes.

These were some kind of egg puffs that these Japanese ladies were enjoying.

And then there were craft items and flowers.

Takayama

We took the Kagayaki Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Toyama with a switch to the Hida line from Toyama to Takayama. Beautiful mountainous scenery with snow capped peaks.

After passengers disembarked, the cleaning crew went onboard to clean and swivel the seats in opposite direction. When they got off they gave a bow (which I wasn’t quick enough to catch) and then proceeded on their way)

Takayama is a charming town nestled in the “Japanese alps” with unspoiled Edo-period streets lined with small shops, pubs and eating places. The homes are mostly built of timber (Japanese cedar) and the windows to the streets are mostly shuttered or louvered. The Miya River runs through the town; water runs in channels along all the streets and everything is immaculate.

Lunch time. Miso soup and good draft beer!

A cute “fast food” stall in Takayama

Another lovely pagoda with massive and ancient willow tree.

It was alongside the river that we saw our first abundance of cherry blossoms.

…..and then more …

Now I am satisfied!

These tots seen on a school bus late afternoon! School can be just too exhausting.

A day onboard Millennium

A spectacular day of sailing in the calm, blue waters off the southern coast of Japan. Dolphins jumping and diving, views of mountains and chalk cliffs lining the coastline of one of the islands. We saw no evidence from the eruption of Mount Shinmoedake.

So far we’ve had a very enjoyable time meeting people from many different countries and walks of life. Some we meet in passing over a meal, others we reconnect with.

…and an interesting tour of the galley. We discovered that all waste is collected, reduced and sold at a receiving port. Food waste is kept in barrels with a bacteria that removes all moisture so that it ends up like pellets and is sold to companies that recycle such waste for fertilizer, animal food, etc. Cans, plastic and cardboard are crushed and packaged. Broken glass and dishes are ground and recycled. Proceeds from the sale of these recycled materials go to a fund that is used for crew members for emergency travel or parties!

The chef on the left is the Executive Chef and is responsible for all the menu planning based on passenger demographics, cruise location, etc., for all the galley staff, and just about everything involving food on board. The man in the black shirt is responsible for all the breakfast food and works from 2-10a.m.

It is a mammoth operation and seems to work quite seamlessly despite the need for adhering to USDA regulations and the need for absolute sterility.

Jeju Island, Korea

Jeju Island, also known as the “Island of the Gods,” is a popular vacation spot for Koreans and foreigners. It remains the top honeymoon destination for Korean newlyweds and offers a wide range of activities. The climate remains mild year round, and rarely dips below freezing.

The local traditional culture stands in stark contrast to the mainland (and much of Asia) as being matriarchal. The role of seafood gathering on the island has been dominated by women. As such, a common sight around Jeju’s coastline is that of the “haenyo” or “woman diver”, a figure that has become somewhat iconic. Even more evident are the “dol hareubang” or “grandfather statues”, giant basalt statues. These statues first appeared in 1754.

We took a bus that went around the town and along a short distance of the coastline. We got off at the Jeju Folklore and Natural History museum.

After our visit there, it was an enjoyable walk down hill to Dongmun market and Black Pork street. The Jeju Black Pig is a breed of domestic pig on the island, and barbecued black pig meat is commonplace here and we ate some at a stall in the market.

This seemed to be a neighborhood recycling center.

The market definitely offered a different selection of foods to most markets I’ve visited.

Lots of kimchee and fermented vegetables and fish.

I believe the long silver fish are called Oar fish. The other fish appears to be smoked or semi-dried and is expensive at $40 -per kilo?

Some of the prepared food.

Not sure what these are!

Seoul city

The ship provided a shuttle service from the port to Incheon where we caught the metro to the city center.

We were surprised to see so many young people dressed in a national style costume and enjoying photo ops at the first stop on our itinerary – Gwanghwamun gate – but then learned that the costumes are rented at a nearby shop!

The palace was closed, but we walked the perimeter and to the rear of the enclosed grounds to see The Blue House, Korea’s equivalent to the White House. There appeared to be a high level of secret service types, so don’t know if some dignitary was expected?

We enjoyed strolling the narrow streets and alleys of Bukchon-Hanok – a village like atmosphere within the city, with quaint and small homes and businesses. The name Bukchon, which literally translates to “northern village,” came about as the neighborhood lies north of two significant Seoul landmarks, Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jongno. Hanok relates to the small houses.

These sweet delicacies are made by blending honey and cornstarch to make the threads and then filled with a nut mixture. Fascinating to watch!

Lunch called for traditional bulgogi (beef in a broth) and VERY spicy pork and noodles.

These were the side dishes.

Me rocking the chopsticks and Kimchee!

Cheonggyecheon Stream runs for 6 km through the city center and makes for a nice, tranquil walking space.

Tiles tell Korean history along the walkway.

Qiboa

Our original plan was to take the train to one of the water towns outside Shanghai, but with the journey taking upwards of one-half hours, we decided to stay local and visit Qiboa which is now in the suburbs of Shanghai and can be reached via the metro.

Known as an “ancient town”, Qiboa was built in Northern Song Dynasty (960-1126) and grew into a prosperous business center during Ming (1368-1644) and Qing Dynasties (1644-1911).

We didn’t see any crickets, but it was one of the most popular folk activities among the ancient Chinese and even now cricket fighting still draws much interest. Evidently the crickets in Qibao, especially the fiercest species called Iron Sand and Blue, provide exciting performances each day during the golden weeks (May 1-7 and Oct. 1-7) and the annual Festival of Cricket Culture. Too bad we weren’t here for that!!!!

Nonetheless, Qiboa is a very attractive spot and popular with local tourists.

We enjoyed a good lunch on the banks of the canal. I wonder what is stored or fermenting in these urns – seen in the restaurant?

Shopping in Shanghai’s side streets

So much to see and so many questions!? And hardly anyone speaks English to answer them!

We started out this morning on a quest to find a Chinese cleaver – they are used in every Chinese household for chopping vegetables and my friend, Nan, asked me to get her one. We purchased a day pass for the metro and headed to a street that I had found after googling and googling these knives – without much success. We headed to East Nanjing and then to Fuzhou street. It all looked way too up market for such a simple tool.

On our way to People’s Square to catch another metro to a hotel and restaurant wholesale shop, I suggested we take one of the side roads that looked more interesting to me.

There we discovered the streets where the locals shop for produce, fish, and just about any other item. I love all the exotic fruit, and we bought some for our room.

I’d been wondering what these little pots on dry ice were. I bought one and discovered it Is delicious yogurt! Will be picking up a couple this evening for breakfast tomorrow.

So – back to the side streets …. the cutest mini mangoes – about the size of a small egg ( bottom left picture)

And ginger the size of my hand …

I spied a shop with a variety of stock and showed the shopkeeper the photo of the cleaver. She went to the back of the store and appeared with one in hand, but I wanted two!

Off we went, now with the knowledge of what type of shop we were looking for, and with one cleaver in hand. We quickly found another😊

These are typical side alleys where people live. Everything is spotlessly clean.

Now to what we don’t know. We made our way back to Nanjing Street and entered a food hall – something resembling Harrod’s. These things – I am assuming they are of some kind of herbal benefit – are REALLY expensive. 6456 yuan is a little over $1000!

I love this ad on a wall.

A huge Apple store in a mall.

Back to the metro to ride to Qibao – a suburb that was originally a small water town. Virtually everyone on the metros and on the streets is taking part in the national, or global, obsession!

We have seen many – mostly men – wearing these bracelets and necklaces. Some look like sandalwood, others like polished minerals or rocks. Why do they wear them?

Shanghai streets and Yuyuan Gardens

The morning started with this lovely fresh pressed orange juice and dish of mango!

As part of our progressive brunch, we moved on to this amazing buffet but selected just the savory dumplings and crabmeat egg rolls – both being local specialties. We will return – a huge and very freshly made selection including what looks like my beloved pastel de nata!

One does not go hungry here in Shanghai! These huge crepes are also a local specialty and are on the list!

Ladies practicing in a neighborhood park; delivery man; silversmiths.

A screen print shop with cool designs for t-shirts while you wait.

One of the older Shanghai streets – Fangbang Street

Old Shanghai – formerly a walled town where the gates were closed at 9 p.m. The wall was demolished in 1912. The two Chinese characters in the city’s name are 上 (shàng/zan, “above”) and 海 (hǎi/he,”sea”), together meaning “Upon-the-Sea”. The earliest occurrence of this name dates from the 11th-century Song …

City flower: Yulan magnolia

The original north gate remains.

Yuyuan gardens.

The 5 acre private garden built in 1559 by Pan Yunduan, as a tranquil place for his parents to spend their remaining years, is considered “a pearl of classical gardens.” The gardens fell into disrepair in the 19th century, but were renovated and opened to the public in 1961.

We ended our sightseeing gig with a long, cool Tiger.

Mumbai markets

We rounded out our India trip with a tour of some of Mumbai’s markets – led by an excellent guide – Jason – and joined by a young British woman. Despite the heat, Jason made the tour very interesting and we started the visit with the old Crawford market, built at the end of the 19th century, now renamed Mahatma Jyotiba Phule market after a philanthropic Indian who rose from the lowest caste and gave back by making education for girls a reality. A fabulous fruit and veg market and we were able to pick up some much needed dried curry leaves -virtually all our recipes call for them, even though we both have live tree plants at home.

The fabric market was fascinating – seeing the shoppers feeling all the fabrics, trying to make decisions. It brought back many memories of Saudi Arabia.

Chau alley- with street food vendors and small shops selling mostly Indian fast food. One item was a poppadum loaded with chick peas, chopped tomatoes and herbs – I’d say “Indian nachos”!

And then there was the flower market. Sorry about all the marigold garland photos – I cannot resist.

Finally – a walk through a temple area – no photos allowed – the the most sacred place – a cow stall – right down town Mumbai! People happily bring food for the cattle, who look very well taken care of!

The End.

Cooking with Renu #4

Lemon Rice (South Indian)

1 cup rice soaked for 1 hour

2 1/2 cups water

1/4 tsp. Turmeric

20 tiny shallots ( 1/3 cup ) or large shallots chopped into pieces

3 green chili’s, slit

3 dozen curry leaves

2tsp. Mustard seeds

1/2 cup peanuts, dry roast them

2 Tbls. Cilantro

Juice of one lime, or combined lemon & lime

1 1/4 tsp. Salt

2 Tbls. Oil

Pressure cook the rice and set aside to cool. (Or, use about 2 1/2 to 3 cups leftover cooked rice).

Heat the oil in pan or wok to HOT. Add dried red chili, mustard seeds, the green chili and the curry leaves in quick succession. Then add the shallots and stir as they cook a bit.

Turn off the heat and add the roasted peanuts. Add half the cilantro, stir in and allow the mixture to cool down before adding the rice, which has also cooled a bit. (If using leftover rice, warm it slightly and add a bit of turmeric to color it yellow.)

Combine the rice and the flavorings. Dissolve the salt in the lemon/lime juice and stir that in and serve.

Kofta Palak Curry. (North Indian)

6 small potatoes, boiled and mashed

1 cup chopped fresh spinach

1 large floret cauliflower (1/3 -1/2 cup) chopped fine

2 medium carrots, grated

2 Tbls. Cornstarch

1/2tsp. Salt

1/4 tsp. Chili powder, hot

1/2tsp. Fennel seeds

Oil, sufficient for frying or deep frying in wok

Mix together potato, chopped spinach, cauliflower, and carrot in a bowl. Add 2 Tbls. Corn starch, salt, chili powder and fennel seeds. Form into small. Alls about golf ball size. This will make about 7 balls.

Heat the oil to HOT, SMOKING. Cook just a few balls at a time and turn them until they are browned slightly. Drain them and cook the rest. Set them aside. They will be reheated slightly when the spinach curry gravy is made and they are put into it.

Spinach Curry (gravy)

1 large onion, roughly chopped

2 medium tomatoes, quartered or chopped

1Tbls. Slivered ginger

1 fresh green chili

2 to 3 dozen cilantro stems, cut into 2-inch pieces

Large handful spinach leaves

4 cloves of garlic

1 Tbls. Oil

1/2 tsp. Fennel seeds

1 tsp. Cumin seeds

1 Tbls. Oil

1 dried red chili

1 tsp. Garam masala

2-inch stick cinnamon

1tsp. Salt

1/4 cup heavy cream

First, purée the handful of spinach with the garlic. The garlic keeps the spinach from turning brown.

Next, heat the first Tablespoon of oil in the wok until HOT. Add cumin and fennel seeds together and let cumin seeds darken slightly — just a few seconds — before adding the onions. Stir the onions until browned a bit, then add slivered ginger, stir, add the green chili and stir about 30seconds.Add tomatoes and “let it become soft and pulpy” as Renu says. Then put in the cilantro stalks and cook for another minute before turning off the heat and letting the mixture cool a bit before puréeing it.  When puréeing it in the blender get it really really fine by adding just a bit of water. It should be totally smooth, says Renu.

Now put the second tablespoon of oil in the wok and get it HOT. First add the dried red chili, then the cinnamon stick, then the purée you have just made.  Ok and stir this as it sputters. The oil will bubble out almost immediately. At that point add the puréed  spinach/garlic mixture. Finally, stir in the cream and set aside. It will thicken a bit. Before serving add a bit of water to loosen it and gently place the Kofta balls into it. Reheat very gently… maybe adding a bit more cream before serving.

Credit: Renu www.explorindya.com