We are so lucky! this is the second time that we could see Dale Chihuly’s magnificent glass works installed at the Desert Botanical Gardens here in Phoenix. Last time we went in the evening, but this time we opted for early morning which gave us a different perspective with the lighting.
There is a section of Saudi Arabia called “the empty quarter” and we discovered a very similar area on our drive through south eastern Arizona – a loop detour we made on our way to Phoenix.
3,530 miles!
We made stops at Lowell and Bisbee – two former copper mining towns.
I remember my first impression – 32 years ago – of the southwestern USA and thinking back to watching “The Lone Ranger” and other such westerns as a kid. The impression that cowboys or indians could be lurking behind craggy rocks still stays with me.
We took Route 90 (rather than I10) from San Antonio. The drive was very easy on ramrod straight roads with virtually no traffic. We saw antelope grazing, sheep and cattle; bright blue skies with some whispy clouds. Very few people inhabit this part of Texas and one wonders what those few do. We were very close to the Mexican border at times and I couldn’t help but think about those attempts to cross the Rio Grande and the border.
We came across a beautiful reservoir and the Pecos River.
We arrived at our destination of Alpine, Texas and were amused to see that the local newspaper is named “Alpine Avalanche” – I don’t think there have been too many avalanches around here! The town is a veritable cultural oasis in these parts with a lively downtown and a university campus. Our overnight accommodation was at the quaint and cute Maverick Inn. What a delight! so truly texan looking with cactus, cart wheels, adobe buildings and more. We loved it!
We had dinner in town at The Century Bar & Grill – recommended by both TripAdvisor and the inn staff. It was delicious and the menu was much more upscale than I would have imagined.
From Alpine we had just a short drive to Marfa, a little town I’ve heard and read about. Unfortunately there wasn’t much activity there – we forgot that today was a Holiday. Nonetheless, we walked around the downtown area and had the place to ourselves.
And onward to I10 where the speed limit is 80mph! Woohoo! not since Germany have we done this.
A short distance from San Antonio are two lovely little German settlements – Gruene (evidently pronounced Green – the translation of gruene) and New Braunfels. We spent the morning browsing around an arts market in Gruene and strolling around town and then a walk around the center New Braunfels.
A three-day interlude visiting friends on our drive from Maine to Arizona. The lovely warm weather, being able to sit outside, and their tremendous hospitality has made this a welcome break.
We took in some of the sights of San Antonio – the Alamo, Riverwalk, and two of the four missions on the Mission Trail.
Firstly the Alamo and Riverwalk.
And then to lunch at The Green restaurant at the Pearl Brewery complex and near the Culinary Institute of Arts.
I loved the pipe warmers!!!
Then on to the Mission Trail for Missions Concepcion and San Jose.
We were lucky to have a spectacular day on November 30 to drive the coastal route to Cannon Beach. We spent so much time stopping and enjoying the scenery, having lunch, visiting cheese factories, tasting wine, etc. that we arrived in Cannon Beach too late to see Haystack Rock. Our hotel, The Wayside Inn, was very nice and we especially enjoyed the upgrade to a two bedroom suite with gas fire.
Unfortunately we awoke to drizzly, misty weather that turned to rain. The beach with crashing white surf and the rocks shrouded in mist was still worthwhile.
On to Lima, via a one and half hour flight. We were whisked away in a bus to the Miraflores district for lunch and visit in the Larco Herrara Museum, which is housed in a vice-royal mansion built over a 7thC pyramid. The collection of pre-Columbian pottery and art was absolutely mind boggling in its size and quality. Then on to a quick city tour including the Plaza de Armas, Government Palace, and Cathedral, where Francisco Pizarro is entombed. Our farewell dinner was at the renowned Huaca Pucilana with views of a 1,500 year old pyramid site.
Before leaving the hotel we were treated to a “session” with a Shaman from Chinchera. He brought a bundle of offerings including coca leaves, which he distributed among us. After making his offerings and surrounding them with a piece of string and our coca leaves, he then wrapped up the bundle (for later burial on a mountain top) and blessed each one of us by touching it to our heads and doing a type of body scan with it!
Afterwards we drove out of town a little way to visit the Sacsayhuaman fortress, constructed of massive blocks of limestone (incan) with the largest weighing over 110lbs. Evidently, from the air, the complex resembles the head of a puma – one of the sacred animals (puma, condor, snake).
After our tour of the fortress we were entertained by a quartet of musicians who played their unique music whilst we stood in a fragrant eucalyptus grove. Preceding lunch, we had a demonstration on how to make the appetizer causa, which we later ate.
Cusco – what a beautiful city (of approx. 400,000) – colonial in appearance with the red-tiled roofs, but when one looks closely at the foundations, you see Incan handiwork. We spent three days in the lovely Novetel (close to the Plaza de Armas). The name Novotel puts one in the mind of a modern high-rise, but this was in a narrow street and a former typical, courtyard-styled residence where the hotel installed a glass dome over the courtyard for restaurant purposes. Ingenious! We visited the beautiful cathedral of Cuzco which has an amazing collection of colonial art; Quricancha (Golden Temple) where in Incan times the floors and walls were adorned with gold. In the evening we were invited by a local family to join them for dinner! we had a pleasant exchange and a delicious meal.
Nothing can quite prepare you for the beauty and majesty of the mountains, or the ingenuity and precision of the structures that were part of this Incan place of worship and residence.
Rene really packed the day full of activities! On our way back to Ollantaytambo we also stopped at a potter’s workshop where he explained how he creates his work, where the clay comes from, etc. and then we stopped at a Chichaeria – a local pub type place where they sell their home-brewed chicha – made from corn. Needless to say we got to sample it – it was OK, but nothing I’d want a lot of! In the courtyard was a table game where one tosses bronze discs in an attempt to get it through one of the small holes or, ultimately, into the frog’s mouth!! We had a friendly game between two teams – the Pumas and the Condors – and way to go, my team, Condors – who won mightily!!!
Our hotel (Casa Andina Private Collection) in Urubamba was a big surprise! Set in lush and beautiful gardens at the foot of a mountain constructed in chalet style with tile roof – beautiful!
We set off in the morning, in our first drizzle, for the ruins of an Incan Emporer at Ollantaytambo. What a magnificent site! We were some of the first tourists there and gradually climbed the steep stone steps ,to the sun temple and with fantastic views over the entire site. The intricacy, precision and fine work of those Incan engineers is absolutely mind-boggling – and all without the use of machinery, metal blades, cranes, etc. Our mascot dog (named Trooper by Nicole) stayed with us the entire time.
From there we headed into the hills to Chinchero where our first stop was at a small village school. The children were adorable and ranged in ages from 2-8 (it also serves as a day care). They sang for us and kindly let us take their photos. The school is supported, in part, by Gate 1 Travel who give a percentage of our tour price.
Then on to a weaving cooperative where we were also served a delicious lunch followed by a demonstration of the washing, dyeing, spinning, and weaving process. The host ladies were extremely gracious and the setting was lovely. Oh! And did I mention that Guinea Pig can frequently be found on the menu?