Ragusa Ibla

We left the southern plains of Sicily, and gradually climbed through valleys and over limestone mountains until we reached Ragusa. There are two parts to the city of Ragusa, the modern section, and Ragusa Ibla, the hilltop Baroque old town.

Our hotel, San Giorgio Palace, a former monastery is carved into the side of the cliffs at the bottom of Ragusa Ibla. Entering at level Zero and taking the elevator to the fifth floor, one comes out in the town.

The streets were very quiet yesterday evening, Shrove Tuesday, and we found a small café in Piazza Duomo, where we had delicious Caponata and Arancino washed down with a couple of glasses of local wine.

Sicilian carts are a tradition and a local folklore icon. Known all over the world, they originated in Sicily around the 18th century.

In ancient times, they were built by carradori (coach builders), skilled local craftsmen, and used to transport all kinds of goods. We visited the last workshop of its kind where we met an apprentice carradoro who works under two masters building these delightful carts. Antonio, the apprentice, has been working with the masters for five years, and will have another five years of apprenticeship before he becomes a master himself. Everything is made using hand tools and the details are amazingly intricate.

The colourful decorations depict various subjects: from sacred images of the Virgin Mary or saints to episodes from romances of chivalry, scenes from daily life and historical events.

Today, these wonderful examples of Sicilian popular culture can be admired during the parades and festivals.

We also visited the very exclusive and private Conversation Club. The Circolo di Conversazione was built in 1838 on the initiative of 18 founding members. Inside the building, the original document listing the names and contributions is still preserved. Among them were members of the most important families and owners of various noble palaces,

Here, the erudite local bourgeoisie discussed “with the ambition of having the solution to everything” (as Gesualdo Bufalino wrote).

It wasn’t until 1974 that women could become member.